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do you mean the cable or the gauge or the drive unit on the t-case?

simp5782 - ok did that - my battery drill will only spin the gauge to 20 mph, ran it for about 10 min, worked fine. will run the truck (once I get the front PM finished) and see if its really working or 20 is just not fast enough to get it to fail. thanks

Floridianson --that's kind of what I though - just thought i'd ask - some of these guys have scary impressive amounts of knowledge and some pertains to these trucks...lol. my pancakes (diaphragms) are good, replaced them just abit ago... and hey I think the front one had failed -so maybe did...

not sure what goes on the upper, but on my exhaust flare junctions (the ones with the clamps like the lower left in your picture) i used a gasket material that is made for exhaust (not paper much thicker) and has a wire mesh in it, buy it in sheets (4x6 in. is what my small motor repair shop had...

Doing front axle PM on a M936A1, and found the following "little" bit of oil on the back of the brake pad, seems to be coming from the brake cylinder. no fluid on the pads face or any where in the hub area, only this little bit on the back. I did not think they contained any fluid (or am I wrong...

yeah i had earlier cleaned all the dash grounds last time i opened the gauge panel up, replaced both the intank sensors when i first got the truck (2 yrs ago). I think i will add in a few extra ground wires while its open as you suggested. was trying per TM to figure out if the switch was...

Have M936, speedo will work for a bit and drop to zero, then reengage for a bit, then drop out, finally pulled out gauge panel to solve this and another issue, unhooked the cable from the gauge - unhooked the other end out of the transfer case. pulled each end, the cable does not appear broken...

having a fuel gage issue (M936) and am reading TM 9-2320-272-23-1 pp 0107-5, checking the wires and fuel switch - step f states to connect circuit 28 to red lead, and step g. black to ground, then step h states meter reading should be 5 to 8 vdc... totally clear. what confuses me is the...

My 831, if it sits for more than a day or two - will start and trip on "over overload short circuit" - so i have to run it "pinned" to heat it up (my interpretation to what is happening). once the unit is warm, it will start and run fine. having read all the threades i figured the inverter...

i just did all mine on an M936a1, a lot depends on your trucks condition (ie how stuck your old torque rod ends are in the truck) as to how the upper inboard ends can be removed, for sure removing the two tires and the spring top beam will do it. and that is not overly hard, the 4 u-bolt nuts...

i just did all mine on an M936a1, a lot depends on your trucks condition (ie how stuck your old torque rod ends are in the truck) as to how the upper inboard ends can be removed, for sure removing the two tires and the spring top beam will do it. and that is not overly hard, the 4 u-bolt nuts...

watch ebay and craiglist they come up every now and then as others part theirs out, the OEM's seem hard to get to sell direct but the inverter appears to still be in manufacture. good luck. I've been sort-of looking for spare also.

Simp5782, will add a trolley valve to my list of things to do. and yes I have noticed no push even when loaded with a couple of tons of logs and no air on the brakes (just local < 45 mph). thanks

Trailer experts I have a M1061 trailer which i pull behind my M936a1. everything is stock. I have noticed if i run the trailer empty with the air brakes hooked up, on anything other than pavement, they will lock up pretty easy. once loaded, the brakes operate perfectly. I have not run it...

so how messy is removing the hydraulic filter, the tm indicates it auto seals from the tank??? or do I need to empty the tank first?

Simp5782 I looked over the hoses last night, just squeezed them. all big return lines were hard as rocks....will try the hammer trick tonight. one question - the TM indicates that when you pull the hydro tank filter it self seals the line.... but what ever is in the filter i assume will...

thanks hadn't thought of a collapsed hose... will check that out.

Back ground info I noticed my crane (M936A1) seemed to be running slower (hydraulic operations) yesterday, not sure if governor RPMs are down a bit or not, was running at 1500rpm yesterday, can't remember if it used to run just a bit faster (1600-1700?). could 100 rpm make a noticeable...

Simp5782 - thanks, I may consider upping the button a notch and the dual fuel line, I do feel the need for speed, but I would like to keep speed up just a tad on the grades as I spend most of my time on 2 lane back roads and gravel/dirt. is a button swap easy? do you have to pull the pump or do...

71deuceAK over all i'd say I got a good solid truck, bought from the army thru gov planet. but it is around 30 yrs old so as you stated running it brings out the weak points. so far new alternator, shutterstate, fluids, filters, t-case interlock (that's a super bitch on the 936 to get out)...