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after reading all the threads and watching you do yours, i came to the same conclusion - cheaper to fix than drive to suspension failure (dog bone separation). i had been inspecting mine regularly and two lowers just failed last week (as in picture in previous post). so your posts have been...

I'm next - just bought 12 of the OEM style ends (rubber not the hi end ball joint type) but did pony-up for the pre-welded bar on the ends. have started soaking the ends with oil and got the same offset wrench you did, so hoping to jump on it sometime in the next week or three. two of my ends...

hey my new post and your old one... almost the same... i missed finding yours when i searched around on the site. guess i should have put mine on the back of yours and kept the thread topics clean. 74M35a has good stuff/advice. prices has gone up a a bit...LOL

yeah when i got the truck i did that weight math... and figured that's one reason my truck is soooooo slow and why i get to pay extra each year for a 44k lb. tag. LOL i've only run the truck for a hour or so since the alternator install on the crane PTO so that did not load up the truck heat...

SIMP5782 - there was a MWO that added (or can be added) that engages the fan when the crane PTO is engaged? i can see how that can be done with a second air supply around the shutterstat to the clutch using the same air from the auto throttle. Any idea which MWO it is? (guess i can google each...

Did not want to replace the voltage regulator (again) on my original 60 amp alternator, so up graded to the Delco 33si 100 amp (classified section see SS-74M35A2, easy to work with). it is bigger and you eliminate all the operator error issues with the original (improper shut down sequence)...

Simp5782 - thanks for the info, ok will go check this out, so if i understand it. with the PTO engaged, if i push the "regular" spring brake override, they should NOT dis-engage. i have to push the spring brake override under the steering wheel while the PTO is engaged to get them to release...

Davis - i look forward to your research... since i have not tested my theory, i am inclined to think (based on no facts) it has to do with the source of air used to release the spring brake, the one under the steering wheel "might" use 2nd air rather than E-tank air. but that just a guess, i...

agreed, so why two switches, if both override the spring brake? the normal one for loss of air (an only a limited number of uses or time till the Emergency air-tank is empty), one when you need to let the brakes off when recovering, but why not just use the "normal" then too? does the one...

sounds right, the one on the right (i call it the "normal") is the one for primary and secondary air failure, once the spring brakes engage, you hit it to unlock them so you can be towed is what i thought it is for. so it sounds like they do exactly the same thing? i was thinking with the PTO...

Experts on Wrecker operation (M936A1) Have been going over the TM's, and realized i don't know the difference between the spring brake override switch (the one on the far right of the pnl) and the PTO spring brake override switch (located on the right side and just under the steering wheel). I...

thanks - was really just wanting the K8, i should have left the rest off.

Dieseladdict - thanks for the schematic, but can't quite make out, is that "K6" or "K8" on the short circuit relay contacts between P17 and J17. as i have been curious what the machine actually senses when the overload short circuit lite comes on. if my machine has sat for a bit and humidity...

wow - sounds like my truck, the hoist pump or its drive line (not sure which, lots of fluid in the gear housing) on the hoist sounds terrible and has since i bought it, but no leaks so far, i was going to run it till it misbehaved. i believe any local hydraulic shop can rebuild them, if not...

excellent, i just used veritread, they cost a bit to handle it, but bid it out, so it was not out of sight, you can decline or accept bids, some will be crazy hi, some crazy low, etc..., but they do all the work and it showed up as promised etc... any broker can do it if you want to find a local...

after a bit of searching TM 92320-272-10 and site and no luck on info on alternator rebuilding (i'm sure its been covered somewhere). here's my question - i pulled my alternator (M936A1), to replace the voltage regulator, no problem, but while it was off i figured i check/grease the bearings...

thanks, i will check, but my memory is my spring is in the first or second hole towards the fuel filter side, will try moving it to where yours is, that would increase spring tension. thanks all for the feed back.

yes it is (convenience outlet wiring being light gauge, looks to be 14 at best), your idea is a better(safer) way to go and cheaper than changing out the old GFI with a new "correct' GFI with 15 amp unit. By the way i'm using the unit to power tools for a shed i'm building for my M936, so the...

Chris thanks for the links, reading all bazillion of them. will check magnet pull off etc.. on an unrelated note: one of the things talked about in those posts that happens to me also is a weak over current circuit breaker on the convenience outlet GFI unit, like in the posts found i ran...

thanks - will check that out to night. hadn't looked at the bolt you pointed out and that looks like it controls engine stop side of the governor system... I had focused on the magnet/actuator side.