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Your slugglish concern is what I like to call normal performance for a M1031 on 37's carrying around 'some equipment' in the box...too bad these trucks don't have a real Detroit diesel :p

Two things One, when you are welding those rims, how do you center the insert up for run out? Do you just throw it on an axle and spin it up with a dial indicator? Does it tend to warp while cooling? Two, you are moving at too slow a pace...I need turbo shots and I need them now!!! You can't...

I would say spend more time and resources on items such as a fuel fired heater to get your truck warm in the morning, gauges, maybe an overdrive for lengthy road trips, etc. Frame stiffening I would think wouldn't fall high on the list. If your truck rides that harsh, maybe a set of soft rear...

What are you looking to accomplish with your truck? I agree that some frame flex is necessary on a larger truck especially when you get into MDT and HDT chassis trucks with high GVW's...generally you would probably shoot for the lowest possible on a lighter duty truck. Frame flex on an offroad...

If you didn't mark which bearing race and shims go on each side then you are pretty much back to square one...take it t a gear shop if you do not have the tools or experience. This can all snowball into more expensive repairs if you don't get it right. I agree that if it truly had .017" of...

Seems like 24v genuine Delco Remy starters are under $120 all day long on fleebay. I would highly recommend an end an alternative to cranking the engine to prime the fuel system. It is only going to kill batts and starters. Invest in a nice manual prime fuel filter setup to avoid this.

Since you have a flatbed and probably want to retain a low COG with the factory overload leafs, I would recommend stock suspension with zero rates up front to push the axle forward, saw all the front edge of the fender, and go crossover steering.

The replacements have clips on the inside of the joint cap. Use heat and a hammer, impacts to the joint work best. DO NOT use a press. You will end up bending the ears or busting the shaft. I have a very fancy snap-on ujoint press...never used it. Never something I recommend but a BFH and some...

Sorry to hear about your troubles...don't lose faith yet. Before attempting to DD this truck, you need to spend some quality time. Get the GP system operating correctly, replace the GP's with AC60g's, replace all the fuel lines along with the filter (preferably upgrade to a spin on). Don't jump...

Do not jump to any conclusions without verifying oil pressure with a test gauge like it was suggested. Verify correct oil level, viscosity, pressure switch integrity, idle speed, etc before going further. Many non-electronic dashes suffer this problem because the warning lamp comes on at such a...

Out of the box thinking and winch recovery do not go hand in hand. Another major downside to your plan is when you need to use a block. You will need one of those shackles for the winch cable. Plus what happens when you are done with the pull? The winch will need to be removed. Pretty...

It seems like anything except the real high end stuff is all made in China and the same components. Even the Warn VR's look like lower end clones. Not saying that is bad, a $300 Smittybilt winch is pretty BA for what it is. I'd rather have one than not. The suck part is trying to take...

The little black things in the breaker panel...

Welcome to SS! I still have my M1031 and even though I do not have it listed or actively trying to sell it, "everything is for sale at the right price" :) If you search through my threads, you can see the build and mods done. It's pretty mint with only 9k miles. I'd probably list it for around...

I personally like Detroits on a light weight truck like a Yota or Jeep. Going down the road in a straight line minding your own business. Then BAM!!! The Detroit skips a tooth and almost sends you into oncoming traffic. "Oh Hello...I'm a Detroit...just reminding you that I'm back here"...

The factory CUCV heater is 12v so if you buy the 12v FM100 heater it is plug and play...as long as you follow Recovery's directions. I bought the 24v flavor so I used the 12v stock feed to trigger a relay which takes power off the 24v bus. Confused :)

He ruined it! No CUCV should ever be faced with an electronic throttle pedal or have to drink petrol... All things aside that is a cool engine. They didn't mention it but I think they hooked it to the original TH400. What a waste, should have matched to a 4L80E or one of those "new fancy" 6...

Very common for a Detroit locker to just bang randomly...feels like rearend just exploded. I would pull the cover for an inspection and torque the carrier bolts. If no chunks show up, run it!

http://youtu.be/HYQSTjyTkzI

I believe an SS member posted a video on youtube. Tcase in neutral, pull PTO lever out (keep pressure on it as sometimes it wont fully engage until trans goes in gear), transmission in D range, turn governor switch on