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Go Hoosiers! :deadhorse:

PTO shaft length is different.

Bump for awareness.

We have already had multiple threads on this topic, all are closed or deleted. You should have seen one before posting when you searched. Our site requests a state listed in your location.

Many of the trucks have hardened rubberer isolators for the headlight panel. You may need to replace them. What is your engine idle speed? Many of us have turned it up to around 800 rmp to avoid the harmonic at idle. Does your steering wheel vibrate violently at idle? If so, you may want to...

Looks like complete separation to me. That would indicate dot 5 to me. If you have some dot 3 at home, mix some water in it and look at what that looks like. You should see a difference.

So, is discussion in this thread over then? I'll close it so that myself and other do not waste our time replying to it. It left some questions, in my mind.

Post # 10 contradicts his previous posts. Meaning what?

How were you measuring the 25 volts at the red and purple wires? Did you have your meter leads on them both at the same time, or one to ground and the other on one wire at a time?

How was your buying experience from them? Are you aware the owner of that site is banned from here for crappy deals/business? Your the second person yesterday, to post a link to that business. In an effort to keep this site truly helpful, it would be best if members post from experience...

Interesting. Many have driven for months without an operational in tank pump.

Stick pictures of pretty ladies under the hood?

I have(and many others have) driven trucks for months without an operational in tank pump. Also, stop cross posting on this topic.

Killing the lift pump will not stop it. Simply shut off your ignition switch, and you'll see this is true.

Disconnecting the in tank pump will not kill it.

Ok, now connect the small wires(only) and measure ohms across the large terminals. Should see 1(infinate) with key on, and in start position it should be close to 0. If this happens, then all is well with your relay. Then you need to confirm that this true, if it is, it need to be addressed...

Lower your ohms range. It should have no continuity. Do you see what I'm saying about if the large purple wire had 25 volst to it, the starter should have been cranking. Did it crank or start before you started? Is the starter connected?

Your starter should be turning over if there is 25 volts at both of those wires.

Is your starter turning over, or did you disconnect it for all this testing?

Disconnect all the wires and confirm that you have continuity between the large terminals. If that shows continuity, then your relay is wrong or bad. The relay needs to be a normally open relay.