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So, that is the wrong relay. (your gps have been powered on whenever the key was on) this would be why your D/S alt has had a constant load and why the front battery was low. You now need to test all of your glow plugs, remove and visually inspect your controller card(clean terminals with a...

It's good to question, that is how you learn!

You should have just continued one of the previous threads, not start a new one. You need truck parts, I doubt Advance and Oreilly will have them. Napa numbers don't usually change and if they do, they usually cross reference on their site.

So, you have continuity between one or both small terminals to the shiny metal mounting ears? If so, that is the wrong relay. Your GPs will be on all the time. There are a few different relays you can buy/use. GP109 and ST85 come to mind. This should be listed in the wiki or stickies also.

If you have not been waiting for the abs to do it's thing before starting, or shutting off the truck incorrectly, you may have damaged the controller. All in the TMs(which are free to download on this site and on several others).

12F today. It will be -15 Fri. I let my truck sit for days, and it always starts when I need it to.

They just don't heat until they are destroyed. You can manually power them on and certainly hold them on longer than the controller does. Do you need to? I don't.

The fuel filter base is bled at the top and drained at the bottom. If your base is wet, then your sensor may be the cause of a leak. The TMs explain bleeding and have pictures.

Do you only want facts(no opinions posted)? Next time, please continue an existing thread for something like this. The fact is, The BII tools are what you need. Anything else is a matter of opinion.

Holymoly, don't google that!

You can also just wait 5 extra seconds after your wait light goes out or turn the ignition swith back off and on again to cylcle them twice. I've never needed to manually control the AC60Gs in my truck.

A 10 amp switch is more than enough and a 20 amp pushbutton is overkill.

Some of you may find this humorous, I am BANNED from U-Ship!

Truck, Cargo, Dropside 2 1/2-TON 6X6 W/E

http://www.parttarget.com/2530-01-441-4866_2530014414866_RCSK17128.html

In stock configuration, with one bad gp, the rest of them will be over supplied(over voltage) and can burn out just like that. This is why many of us recommend resupplying the GP relay with 12v and eliminating the resistor bank/24v supply for civilian use. If you used an incompatible relay...

Here is the thread for the power bleeder. http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?3229-Deuce-Power-Bleeder-R4x4-Style&highlight=power+bleeder

ell, you can start with a good bleeding and see what you get. Watch for "gelled" brake fluid(indicating a mix). Mixed fluids tend to destroy the rubber in the system. You can remove the vent on the master cylinder and screw a pipe nipple into that hole to pressure bleed the system with a home...

Well, let me ask you this, what is your goal with this truck? Do you need it to be safe and reliable? If it were mine in this situation, I would flush all lines and do a complete brake system overhaul(rebuild or replace everything(except the steel lines). Maybe even the steel lines if any...

You need to bleed the air pack, then the wheelcylinders. If you are getting air at the air pack, you may have a bad Master Cylinder. Pull the boot on the push rod and see if it is wet or leaking as you pump it. You need to be sure the two little holes at the bottom of the master cylinder are...