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While you were at autozone, http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/Tools-Garage-and-Equipment/Multimeter/_/N-26lr

He can't test, he only has a phone. Does anyone have a Digital Multi-Meter app?

I'm pretty sure there are a few threads on this, with part number and lengths listed.

You cannot use a "ford" starter relay. It will keep them on whenever the key is on. That will burn them out.

Ryan, have you read any of the discussions about not using thimbles alone, to hold a singled out wheel on?

NAPA, or any auto parts chain store. Read the sticky.

Read the sticky! It is linked in post #1 of this thread. It is best to read first, post second.

Maybe this will help.

http://www.dmv.state.pa.us/motorVehicleCenter/buying.shtml

That all depends if the state you plan to title/register it in, "works" with the state you paid tax to.

Open your brake bleeder and see if the brake releases.

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?34530-Air-Leak

One of those red wires has a white tracer, look closely. It needs to be in the correct location.

Actually, I think spellcheck changed it on me! Either way, I'm laughing!

Haahhaahhaa:wink:

Looks like a brown eye.

If you get 600/wheel, please pass on my contact info to the buyer.

Steve, I'm not sure if he is trying to convert to 12V or repair/restore to stock. He still hasn't made that clear. Merging isn't good if he is staying stock.

Are you posting from a phone?

The belt number is listed in the stickies and or wiki at the top of the cucv forum(I know others suggested you read them). The schematics are listed in the back of the -20P and -34P TMs. In a stock 24 volt cucv, the second alt(PS side) is NOT grounded. That is why it has an isolated ground...