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RWH is awesome. I don’t live my life on the forum and I texted him. I needed parts, so that’s why he didn’t post to forum. Not anyone’s fault.
Bottom line, the 10” rotor should fit tight. It is loose. It is wrong.
Axle is correct BUT rotor is wrong and went out of balance as it is not tight
The rotors are plain wrong.
RWH was kind enough to go over the images and he has the parts in stock I require. He helps me a lot and is always willing to help so I return the favor through purchasing parts from him.
Someone just posted an amazing description of opening stock HMMWV shocks to make them more ride friendly.
https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/12k-shock-mod-softer-ride.221284/
I gently disagree. There a subtle differences.
Biggest issue is compression and head to short block gaskets.
Not saying you’re wrong BUT I prefer a Diesel shoppe.
Weld a 3/4” arm to the nut. It will block the it from spinning. A dab of silicone or JB Weld, and it will stay in place for reuse.
[Edit - if you don’t have a welder, cut and tap a thin piece of flat stock that is 3/4” long. Then JB Weld or silicone in place.]
The best thing to do when you change tire rod ends is remove the unit entirely from the vehicle and then count the number of threads. Then try to re-create the number of threads and the measured distance from the rod to the threaded pipe.
You can also use the three blocks of wood method. You...
Alternatively, get a circular wood hole/dowel maker and drill out the area behind the bolt/rivnut and push through. Simple and fast and clean.
Cover with duct tape and paint drab green.
Did you properly clock the timing circle from the IP and ensure it is all the way down on the timing gear?
Did you get dirt that is blocking the IP from fuel delivery?
Replace with OEM. Record, champion makes an Aluminum 4 core unit. Cheap. Easy to obtain. Some people claim problems with quality, no quality problem on my spare radiator.
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