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Seems normal in both deuces I’ve owned Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Went for a drive to clear my head, and somehow a MT020 followed me home Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I hate when that happens! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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Gotcha, good deal. Sounds like either rust stained fuel or simply old from lots of sitting in high heat conditions and a little water in it. I’ve ran much nastier fuel, but if in doubt drain it out. You probably won’t hurt that lift pump with that fuel, I’ve seen fuel so filthy it’d make you...

Well let me back up a little, diesel nationwide has always appeared green to me, except in California it was crystal clear like water last September when I visited. Generally speaking, if you allow diesel to sit in a dark environment without water or outside contamination it generally will stay...

I’d drain that, toss it, have the tank professionally cleaned and call it a day. That’s rust stained and nasty, any water in your tank will sit at the bottom and continue to rust the tank when the truck is stationary, then push the rust particulate throughout the fuel system causing premature...

This kit covers everything in #22 of the diagram. I know by experience it fits the 8.3 trucks, Standard SS296 compressor is on both NHC and 8.3s so I think the kit will handle an NHC. Others can chime in Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I know my group of people wouldn’t come for that aspect, we love the SS family, that said riding is what we come for. I’m always down to party in my 7 ton Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I suggest research into Taylor County Boondocks Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

What a bummer. I didn’t know someone could act so foolish (D-Town) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Shift up manually, you’ll be amazed at the difference. The trucks really weren’t designed to just put in 5-1 mode and driven like a civilian car Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

If impractical is an option, I was contemplating a sealed storage container purged with clean dry nitrogen with desiccant packs inside it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Call him, he’s a little brash, but if you want advise, he will help however he can. Here’s my old thread https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/poe-mineral-compressor-oil.190241/ Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Simplecentrifuge.com Best bang for buck, and has saved me thousands. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hey Someone has to be the test dummy of the group, and I volunteer often Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I didn’t have beads in my kit, that is actually your “aftercooler” and your true drier is located after it. It’s main purpose is to try to cool the air and condense moisture out of it before it reaches the actual drier so you get cleaner, drier air and longer life span from the actual drier...

Okay, sounds like CTIS hub seals are toast. I believe the job is straight forward, only struggle may be setting CTIS hub seals proper depth like the old m939a2 trucks Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Also, you can blow a little air out of your valve stem on LF and RF Tires to see if oil blows out of the valve, if it does it’s time to dig in Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

When my truck deflated air from the front, it blows out of that hose, and I’m thinking your hub seals may be shot Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk