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Want to close the loop on this... swapped out the glow plug relay... and now all is well. Strange thing is that it tested fine.. must be like "dependable" said.. relay is throwing and contacts are making enough to pass voltage but not enough to allow it to pull any amps through the plugs...

Thanks for the fast replies! More info: Glow plug controller went bad... so I bypassed it. And I don't go for a 10second hit on the button unless the engine is warm. And In the winter I do a bit of manual after glow as well. As for the resistance changing the engine and the plugs were...

The truck: M1009, purchased from Gov Liquidation ~4.5 yrs ago. REC 12v mod, Glow plug resister removed, 12V fed to GP relay from Civi 12V buss near GP relay. AC 60G glow plugs. Glow plug controller card removed. By pass button placed on Blue wire. Electric fuel pump, with 3/8...

One more thing: On my truck, even after fixing the bad motor, I kept blowing the fuse. I trouble shot it to the terminals in the fuse block only touching the fuse on the very ends of the terminals. This was because they had gotten old and the heat of blowing fuses heated them... and they...

This thread needs a bump.

Some times when I have a slow Internet connection pictures don't display on tap talk.

The blue wires are fusible links... they work like fuses... you really need to start at the CUCV helpfull threads pages (http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?123199-CUCV-Helpful-Threads) and read some of them... ie... Go to the second page of the FAQ thread...

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?73015-M1009-Wheel-bearing-servicing-and-hub-replacement&highlight= Start by reading the thread above, along with the TM sections quoted there. As for replacing hubs... I think you mean disks-hubs... ie you can press the disc off the bearing hub...

Well between watching football and being a dad, I found time to get in-front of the circuit drawings (F20), the -20, -4, and a computer. I have to say I find the manuals (both Chilton, Haynes, and our vaunted -20/-34's) to be lacking on this part of the vehicle. Here's what I think I've...

Just jumped the new motor direct to the battery. Fired up. Still getting good voltage out of the capacitor too. I guess it's a bad connection from the capacitor to the space terminal?

My 1986 m1009s heater blower stopped. I pulled the lead from the capacitor where it plugged into the motor and got 14.4V. I also jumped the old motor... it wouldn't turn, So I just bought a new blower motor and put it in. Still got 14.4v when I probe the lead from the capacitor but even...

I've heard of horns failing and causing problems like this... So be careful that you've isolated what drew way to much current before you bridge the electric gap you now have in you fuse box. I'd think once you've located the culprit you'd start by taking the fuse bock apart and see what is...

The vesta pro I replace and had soldier chunks in it may have blocked passages... Suspect from the soldier as it will run a little hot when it's hot and on a longish trip.

I think the ends of the LMC rig are fusible links... Just like the ones used on the rest of the truck... They are thinner than the rest of the harness....

I've been running two airtex pumps for about three years now. One died after two years.... But I did let it run dry once trying to pull fuel from the tank to prime it... The other survived pumping rust from the fuel tank through a prefilter and the spin on until the IP died... Its still...

Oh and I listed the fuse in my post number 44... And described the fuel filter heater circuit in post number 48.

My pump said to put it on a 10amp circuit. I recommend tapping the fuel heater line on the stanadine filter electric loom.... Orange black iirc. On my civie suburban with a 6.2 I ran mine from there. It was an easy run with loom and zip ties. I also had replaced the stanadine filter...

Added a head light warning chime I've left my lights on too much in this truck... so I built a head light warning chime. Schematics below. Materials: 1-SPDT 12v relay 1-12V buzzer (got it from radio shack) 18 Ga wire two 18ga nylon wire taps female spade connectors for 18 Ga wire glued...

I'm not sure if the relays are rated to switch 24v... but if they are, you'd only need to run a jumper from the 24v buss or rear battery to the two battery leads... I think the leads included are fusible links as they are smaller than the rest of the wires...

I took Warthog's advice and just bought the LMC 36-3580 head light wiring mod that powers the headlights from the battery and reduces the amps that are pulled through the crazy headlight circuits that Warthog explains here...