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Awesome, thank you!

Thanks for those tips. If there are seals on each of the banjo bolts, and I should not reuse the ones on there currently, where can I get more?

Unfortunately the line itself is cracked, not one of the round openings. (I don't know what they are called) It is actually cracked right at the base of the final round opening so I don't think either of those options would work. Please correct me if I am mistaken. Thanks for the help!

It just looked like there were a lot of line that were over the line in question. It just seemed like it would be easier to cut the cracked line out. I had hoped to repair the crack but I could not get a solid option so bought the new one.

Mine is an M939A2 w/the ROPS cab. I was asking if you have ever installed one of these.

Did you replace the fuel return line? I think that is what it is called. Mine cracked and I bought a nylon replacement. Trying to find someone who has used this part before carving up my original one. Thank.s

I am having issues similar to the original post and have done most of the line replacements to stop the air leaks. However, I also have a crack in my return line. I was unable to get a solid answer on fixing the line so I ordered a replacement one. What I got was a flexible line with brass...

Well the line has multiple connections, 6 or 7 so I don't know enough about Swagelok to know if it would work. In my opinion the metal is most likely aluminum. I will look for a bone yard...

Will, I have not tried a bone yard yet. Are you telling me that the newer version of the part is a different material? I didn't quite understand what you trying to say about the newer version. Thanks for the help.

/Thanks for the advice. Would you just use regular silver solder with MAP gas?

Hello all, I managed to crack my manifold fuel line just above the banjo fitting. (above and to the right of the lift pump) Part # is 3922117 I think. The replacement part is in the $400-500 range so I will NOT be doing that again. Anyway, that kind of cash is not currently in the budget...

Glad you are ok, sorry about your truck though...

Thanks guys for the suggestions of a penetration fluid. Wes and I have have come up with a last resort of breaking them off and drilling, welding the bolts back into place. I was hoping to avoid this if possible. The bolts have knobs attached that screw down into a welded nut. Has anyone out...

Did that work on your ROPS cab?

This week I attempted to stop my roof leak. I have the ROPS cab on my M939A2 and the turret cover would leak periodically. I tried to loosen one of the bolts on top w/a wrench and wound up sheering it off. I would prefer not to do this to the rest of them so I am hoping one of you guys has...

Thank you very much gentlemen for your assistance! I will forward the info to my mechanic who will hopefully have Frank up and running very soon. Here at the dotting I and crossing T stage and I don't want to leave anything to chance. Thanks again!

I like it twisted. Could you do me a small favor and look back at my post from the 2nd? I need some more info from A2 owners.

what goes here? Can I get a little help fellas? This threaded port is on the driver side, either at the back of the motor or the front of the tranny. When I switched mechanics, "Frank" showed up with nothing in that opening. The threads are clean so obviously something went there but we are...

What are those batteries Swamp? Hawkers?

Pretty sure mine run great too. How did it tow from Missouri Wes? Any vibrations? lol Maybe one of these days I will actually get to try them out.