818 now with turbo and pics.

[FireFighterHill]

For aesthetics id use a wide boxed tube for going over the valve cover, but that would add alot of fab time and potential leaks. Nice job, it seems funny seeing such a small tube feeding a big engine even though I know it doesnt matter cause its under pressure.

 

[jwaller]

For aesthetics id use a wide boxed tube for going over the valve cover, but that would add alot of fab time and potential leaks. Nice job, it seems funny seeing such a small tube feeding a big engine even though I know it doesnt matter cause its under pressure.

YA, it does look small but that tube normally feeds the very large intercooler box on the drivers side that replaces the intake manifold. but yes for such a large eng 2.5 does seem small.

 

[R Racing]

Great write up !! Thanks for all the info !!

 

[buzzinhalfdozzen]

Are the manifolds from a 290 cummins to a 400 cummins the same? Just want to make sure I get a manifold that fits when I do this.

Great write up guys

 

[jwaller]

there are several manifolds that will work just make sure that you get everything from the same vintage so it all works together. if you start with a 290 or 325 or 350 or 400 then get everything from the same donor.

I was hauling about 40k on my flatbed the other day and the coupler hose exploded and caused me to loose boost form the turbo. I thought I had just thrown another 40k behind it. she lost about 3/4 the power or so if seemed.

I would never go without the turbo on these motors.

 

[buzzinhalfdozzen]

Be carful runnin it with a blown boot. Spins the turbo way to fast without the restriction on the cold side. Not good for the bearings

290 cummins seem to be a dime a dozen around here. Think i'll be robbing one of those for all the parts.

 

[jimk]

Be carful runnin it with a blown boot. Spins the turbo way to fast without the restriction on the cold side. Not good for the bearings

I'm no expert but I don't agree. Without manifold pressure there is much less exhaust flow so the turbine/compressor RPM is low. Maybe smoke and lower egt too?

The CH model Macks I drove got variable nozzle turbos around 05'. I had a bunch of clamp band failures with different new trucks- Bang, noisy, no power. Probably a 75% reduction as they ran ~36psi when healthy (for 1000lb- ft Tq). W/O that turbo it was weaker than a deuce because max rpm in taller gears was limited to a low ~1700rpm. Think of a 728ci naturally aspirated desile that runs at, say, 1200-1500 rpm (lower at cruising speed and/or getting up to redline). Low rpm= low HP. configuration all messed up. I dealt with it roadside by moving a clamp from the low side to high side.

JWaller, what manifold pressure do you run??

 

[jwaller]

I'm no expert but I don't agree. Without manifold pressure there is much less exhaust flow so the turbine/compressor RPM is low. Maybe smoke and lower egt too?

The CH model Macks I drove got variable nozzle turbos around 05'. I had a bunch of clamp band failures with different new trucks- Bang, noisy, no power. Probably a 75% reduction as they ran ~36psi when healthy (for 1000lb- ft Tq). W/O that turbo it was weaker than a deuce because max rpm in taller gears was limited to a low ~1700rpm. Think of a 728ci naturally aspirated desile that runs at, say, 1200-1500 rpm (lower at cruising speed and/or getting up to redline). Low rpm= low HP. configuration all messed up. I dealt with it roadside by moving a clamp from the low side to high side.

JWaller, what manifold pressure do you run??

ya soon as the boot blew off I got instant gobs of black smoke just like the old days. I am running about 15psi at max load and rpm, normally about 12. I could run more as the egt's are better than they were without the turbo but I'm doing fine with the new power level that I have. Any more and I'd begin to get nervous about the head gaskets not being able to handle it. I"m not sure if they are as good as the ones meant to see boost.

 

[jimk]

I'm at 15-16psi @2100

 

[atvcat33]

i got 34 psi of boost, and 330 psi of fuel pressure, stock is about 140 psi.

i have different injectors, pump, buttons, gov springs, and all the basic gauges,

these motors can take more than one thinks, i have over 400 horse and the dyno to prove it, the pump i have is rated at 500+, guys need to remember that the turbo on these trucks is useless without changing the bellows, the stock pumps to dont have the adjustment on them, usually at 12:00 on the dog house cover on the pump, but stock doesnt need them. the truck has no idea it has a turbo, and as far as piston coolers YOU DONT NEED THEM, thats why you need to watch your gauges, i can get my truck sideways with 49's when its wet. i dont care about blowing it up cause i wont.

 

[R Racing]

Thanks for the update . Looking to put a turbo on my m813

 

[Vintage iron]

I just picked up my M813 NTC 250 and drove from almost Canada to Boston. The trip took me through the mountains of VT and NH. The truck pulled like a mule and went between 50-60 mph depending on if it was going up or down a hill. I had the pedal to the floor running 2100-2200 rpm. Oil pressure was good and engine temp was good. I love the truck and 55 mph is plenty on most roads, especially in Massachusetts. I have to watch out for prius or other PCC.

I have been following this thread for a while and I must say" It has been great" I am planning on doing this conversion on my 813. I am planning on putting 14.00r20 tires on my truck for a little more travel speed when I want it. I drove a truck with 16.00R20's and they are to big for my liking. I like to drive the truck, not have the truck drive me.

My buddy has a trucking company and has lots of Cummins parts trucks. He said that I can take my pick. I am going to go with one with the intercooler in the intake manifold. I think with the turbo and intercooler that I will get a nice cool fuel mixture and good EGT. I will do the exhaust the same size as noted here, but I am going to run the stock cummins turbo cross over pipe. I have included pictures of one of the Cummins that I can get parts off. It is either a Cummins 350 or 400. I may take an engine home for a rainy day too.

Before anyone says that the crossover is to high. I know! there are two different hieghts. The one I am going to use is much higher, but I have no problem adding a little height to the hood to have a intercooler. The other one is nice and tight to the rocker boxes but No intercooler. I will post up pictures though out the build to keep everyone up to date.

 

[jimk]

I'll bet that thing fits. It will be interesting to see how much boost you have. The intercooler isn't even close to 100% efficient and the water is already 180. Unless you are at or above say 20-25psi it may do little towards cooling the charge. What I am seeing is low EGT and figure that even my warm un-intercooled air at 16psi is a lot cooler than having no extra air at all.

 

[Vintage iron]

Thanks jimk! I would hook it to it's own cooler like a transmission cooler or AC condenser radiator with a pump. If I use a transmission cooler with a fan and pump I could mount it anywhere. But like you said, It is already cool. It might not be worth it. I will try it straight first. That way i don't need to F*#k with the hood. I will have the air crossover and intake powder coated and I will wrap them in insulation to keep the air cool. I will have the exhaust manifold and exhaust jet hot coated to keep thing cool under the hood and protect the parts. Exhaust wrap gets wet and holds moisture!

 

[jimk]

I'd leave the pipe and manifold uninsulated. You peak under hood air temp is 100+*F cooler than the intake charge at 15 psi. Big rigs that I used to drive never had insulation on either the intake or exhaust. Under hood air may be radiator warm but it is moving very fast. Cold by exhaust system standards. A more practicable worry would be for radiant heat coming from glowing exhaust components (damaging hoses or wires).

Fresh idea? I was looking at my pals 2010 GT500 Shelby. I thought he could to replace the water to air intercooler with a second evaporator in the valley, then use the existing air cond. hardware to super cool the intake charge. It would be easy to configure the system to automatically switch back and forth as boost dictated. Routing AC lines is easier that big pipes. The whole thing would weigh less too. I don't know why the factory isn't already applying this design. Anyway for those here wanting to intercool it would be an option for those that don't mind adding a compressor and other mods, They could mount a condenser in any remote location, like under the fender, cab floor or cargo box. Cab air could be designed in, or not. You can get some really efficient cooling with 45*F in the heat exchanger. Switchable too, like Max Max's fake supercharger.

 

[jimk]

I'll bet that thing fits....

I missed the Jacobs engine brake. It will not fit without some mods.

 

[Hooty481]

just took some time to read this thread almost front to back and I am new to the 5-ton world and i am thinking about purchasing one. more than likely a m818. I will prob do this mod.

this might be a dumb question but would a turbo from a deuce work on this application?

 

[jwaller]

just took some time to read this thread almost front to back and I am new to the 5-ton world and i am thinking about purchasing one. more than likely a m818. I will prob do this mod.

this might be a dumb question but would a turbo from a deuce work on this application?

no, don't even think about it.

 

[4x4e350]

Excellent thread!
You,ve given me inspiration for my M818. I have turboed a Ford 300 6, in my buggy, and it runs on propane, which was easier to tune than the gas. So I have the basic understanding of turbos, and from what I have read, diesels accept turbos much better than gas.
Maybe I missed it, but how did you drain the turbo oil back into the engine?
OK, I just read the first page, the question I asked was there, no need to answer it again. Sorry. The engine already has provisions for a oil drain line, that means this MUST be done. I had to weld a tube into the oil pan of my gasser!

 

[1943ht]

VINTAGE IRON .. that looks just like the same turbo I picked up for my M818 last week .. Can't wait to get home and get started on that project .. I went with the 16.00R20's on my beast .. will be pulling a 35 foot low boy trailer loaded with a 1943 M16A2 Half-track and M10 Ammo Trailer .. Wanted a little more HP edge for HWY hauling ... could have gone with a different rig to haul the "Queen" around with .. but I like the sex appeal of the M818 when I pull up curbside with the half-track in tow...