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BODY-CARGO PIPELINE CONSTRUCTION

Recovry4x4

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Bjorn, after reading that test document I sent you it appears that the original M756 was actually the M45 chassis with the pipeline kit in which your bed was from. The later versions such as mine were issued as a complete vehicle and I'm figuring that's why mine has no bed data plates. Do you still have the mounts on your frame on the front for the 2 spring bolts? I have an extra section of frame with them if you need them.
 

cranetruck

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Kenny, my guess is that the bed with only two block anchors is the earlier version. That's the way it's shown in the report, which is dated 1954. They show a wrong way and a right way to run the wire rope from the winch. The wrong way causes it to rub against the center sheave block, that's why I think the two spaced out block anchors in the center was a later solution.
My bed is dated Feb 1960.

Do you see any mounting holes for the data plates? Chris, how about your dad's M756, does it have data plates and if so, what 's the mfg date?
 

Desert Rat

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Bjorn,

Harold's place in the summer is like a real jungle. It's almost impossible to make your way off the paths when the weeds really take hold. I had to use my machette in several cases. I came upon numerous wait-a-minute vines that took more that a few minutes to hack through. The shade trees help sometimes. I'm following your progress. The bed looks in better shape than I originally thought. Good to see it's coming back to life!
 

cranetruck

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Picked up the lumber for the M756 bed today at the sawmill. It's yellow locust and I'll be preparing boards for Kenny's pipeline truck also.

The trip went well, but I'm one step closer to separating the head lights from the rest of the lights, since the circuit braker tripped one more time when I used the turn signals. Drove the rest of the trip without the head lights (usually turned on during the day).

Used the exhaust brake once in a long hill and it worked really good except for the weak return spring so it took about 15 seconds for the butterfly valve to open back up again. Another thing for the to-do-list.

It was a 70 mile round trip on country roads. Fuel milage was about 7.8 mpg.

I put veggie oil in the tank before I left, the mix was about 5%. Ambient temp was about 70 degF and with the winter cover flap open, my engine temps ranged from 175 to 202 on the digital thermometer, downhill and uphill respectively.

The vegetable oil was store bought and didn't result in any noticable difference in performance.
The deuce weighed 16,250 MT and about 19,000 lb loaded today.

Top speed today was about 58 mph. Average speed about 33 mph.

Took a few pictures, but the film will have to be developed. More in a few days...
 

cranetruck

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Got the film developed and here are some images. The first one showing the M756 bed tilted up in preparation for removal of the smashed taillight pods. Next, a picture at the sawmill. The spare tire is always a PITA since I don't have a space for it (the normal space is occupied by the hydraulic tank) and it usually ends up on top of the cargo.
It may look like a lot of lumber for two truck beds, but locust is rough with a very low yield, so that's why the large quantity.
 

cranetruck

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No problem, Kenny.
It's interesting that both our decks require 13 boards, but they are all different in width and the locations and number of block anchors are different also. The M756 really was a custom job! I assume that the stake pockets are in the same places, though.

Steelsoldiers! If you don't mind, ask your dad about his pipeline truck bed. How many boards are there on his and what about the "block anchors"?
 

Recovry4x4

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Bjorn, what are your painting plans? Are you going to prepaint the boards, assemble and final coat it as a unit? I'm torn on what to do with the wood. I would like to linseed it but I want it to look right. I also want it to outlast my useful life too.
 

cranetruck

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My plans are to prime the boards on all sides before installation and paint the specified camo on top.
They look very pretty natural, but stains don't hold up to weathering and I have even tried "UV-blockers". Nothing beats plain old oil based paint. Polyurethane is not good in the sun either.
The original boards were painetd OD on all sides.
 

Recovry4x4

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Thanks for that advice Bjorn! Makes much sense and I'll probably follow your approach with mine. My entire bed, once stripped will have to be blasted. I think form there its going to get a wet coat of chassis saver paint before applying color. On the remaining screws that you removed, are they slotted, phillips or what? As wrong as it is, I'll probably put stainlessback in unless they're too expensive.
 

cranetruck

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All the original screws were present on my deck. They were all rusted badly so I just cut them as the boards/metal bands were removed. They were slotted, flat head, fine thread 2-1/2 inch long 5/16 dia machine screws with split ring lock washers.
You will need 96 screws (and nuts and washers) to complete the install.
I purchased a box of 100 ea 5/16-18 (course thread) x 2-1/2 inch long philips flathead screws for $44.33 from Jamestown Distributors (401 253-3840) along with nylon insert type nuts ($8.31). All stainless.
I will also use split ring type lock washers to keep some tension on the assembly as the wood shrinks and expands over time.

I bought a 4-inch holesaw for the block anchors the other day and it set me back $30.00. I'll bring it to Aberdeen and you can mail it back when done.

It's time to remove the old bed from the deuce, it served me well for about eight years :-(.
The crane must be moved an inch and the hydraulic tank 6 inches to line up the wheel wells and a couple of the mounts. The spring loaded mounts are off about 18 inches (tool box) and the mounts in the far rear are two plates that slide down alongside the frame.

Later,
 

Recovry4x4

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Sounds like you're getting darned close! No worried on the hole saw! I just went out in the garage and found a 4" hole saw so I'm set. I still have to buy and drill the steel strips for the bed. Those will get a coat of chassis saver before install and final color. I was figuring on the truck taking 2 or 3 years to finish but it looks like it might be sooner if the parts truck deal comes together. I still have tons of work ahead of me. I'm hoping to sell a few small things there and pick up 4 gallons of 24087 for the project.
Thanks Again!
 

Recovry4x4

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The ability to do that is just soo cool. Wait! What is that? Is that a full top? Bjorn, did you install a full top on your cab?
 

cranetruck

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Figures you'd notice. No, it's just placed on top of the bikini top when the truck isn't going anywhere. Only to protect it and keep rain out of the cab when parked. Looks better than the 6x8 canvas tarp I used to have, don't you think?
 

Desert Rat

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Bjorn,
Looks really nice! I would have noticed sooner if I wasn't working on mine all day long and doing a mini road trip to shake 'Storm down for next week's trip! BTW, is the crane mil spec or an adaption? The paint looks correct but it has a civy look to it. Could just be my eyes........
 

cranetruck

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DR, the crane is mil-spec, it has all the tags on the pedestal. One tag states that the crane is to be mounted on the M35A2C truck only. As you can see in my profile, it's a 1972 model.
It came from a 1968 Navy Internationl Loadstar truck. The flat bed is home made and I'm thankful to you for finding the M756 deck. Thanks!

PS. I'm sure others also picked up on the cab top thing, it's just that Kenny seems to have a real nack for noticing. I think it's job related. :) BB
 

Recovry4x4

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Huh? Me notice? Wife says I can smell & spot green trucks 2 counties away. I think she is exaggerating, I've never been able to span more than one county. I have a knack though! And DR, I worked on my truck today too. You plan on dragging the M197A1 behind the shelter?
 
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