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sorry i missed this one. I will give you my standard answer, it depends what you are comparing the see to. The see is not going to compete with a new on the lot digitally controlled tier 4 complaint cat, jd or case. On the other hand the cost for a see is a downpayment for what you would pay for a new one. You are not going to be able to work on a new cat or case as they require specialized diagnostic gear and software that you may or may not even be able to access. A see is extremely well documented and the technology is mostly 1960s, albeit the base chassis is german 1960s and the add on equipment on the rear deck is 1980s case so some translation is required on occasion. When you compare a see to an equivalent vintage cat, jd or case it has similar functionality and its highly likely that for what you are paying for good see with minimal hours you are getting a third hand jd, case or cat with lots of hours that is worn out and going to require constant repair.Hello - I am considering buying a SEE. Am interested in making New England contacts - I am in CT - near New London. I have about 8 acres - rough terrain, lets of rocks and trees. I'd use it mostly for land clearing projects - side hustle/gig. Not looking to generate any income with it. At the same time, I am expecting that it will take some cash input depending on how much the starting point needs. I am handy and at the same time, don't want to spend an excessive amount of time fixing break downs.
Purpose of my post is to possibly find folks to dialogue with so I can decide whether I want to go this route or a more traditional path - backhoe or tractor.
Strikes one as an OUTSTANDING summary, peakbagger.sorry i missed this one. I will give you my standard answer, it depends what you are comparing the see to.
Thanks Guy, That is the first good reason to keep it in place.The two reasons I want to get rid of it is first the wires are not on the schematic and wind up confusing me while I try to sort it out. Second the after thought way it was added on in my opinion results in wires running along places that could get hot, or exposed to rocks from the road etc. and it just bothers me. The problem I see with using it for multi meter diagnostics is that I have no idea which pin goes to which wires. so I am not sure how it would help me.This is very true. It's a add on. You can take it off. But you all are focused on only the negative side of the STE/ICE system. And let me state here, the STE/ICE was a failure throughout the military. For three reasons. Soldiers could not use it/ and lost any confidence what so ever in it. It was too complicated. And last but not least, the system never got off the ground before the military "ditched it". No effort was made to correct known faults, to expand its uses or to make it simpler to use.
OK. Now to the good points. Those pins in the C-plug all go to places that it might be handy to be able to check, without getting up, and moving around. Or opening something up. If you look at the points that the wires come from, you just might be surprised. I am not a CEE guy. Haven't looked at the wire Schmatices and checked those points out. But I have done so on equipment I do know well. Power generation. And there are more then several nice to be able to check voltages, available at my C1 plug. Now most of you don't work on the CEE everyday of your life. I did army power generation for about 28 years. Using that plug saved me a million miles, and often allowed me to work alone, insted of needing someone to go around on the other side to mesure voltage while I started the gen set. I also could use it to jump around several circuits, when they didn't work normally. So before you rip everything out, might want to look. And if it's not worth your time, then do it.
I'd use the clamp-on meter if I wanted to know. Every connection in an electrical system is a potential problem source, so the fewer the better, I think.The shunt on the battery cables is a nice thing to have as if someone were so inclined they could hook meter to it and monitor battery amperage.
I'd use the clamp-on meter if I wanted to know. Every connection in an electrical system is a potential problem source, so the fewer the better, I think.
Being not too smart, I always avoided and tried to steer clear of electrical issues (where possible).I cut mine out in a fit of rage last year. Perhaps that was a self inflicted gunshot to the foot, but I loath clutter and poorly installed systems, so for me it simplified the diagnostic procedure.
No she hasn't run since she arrived from the base. I can crack all the line fittings from the primer pump to the injection pump as well as the bleeder screws and get fuel to run out. If I unscrew any of the lines from the top of the injector pump to the engine they are dry despite lots of cranking and lots of priming. Primer gets very stiff with line pressure.I am curious, what do you mean no fuel is getting past the injection pump? The priming system should take care of injection pump priming, that’s what it’s for. I’m assuming this SEE ran in February and March so we can assume the injection pump worked then. As always, these comments are subject to my ignorance and misunderstandings.
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