FLU419 SEE HMMH HME Owners group

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Pinsandpitons

Member
115
1
18
Location
Central Washington
F8AAAD79-578E-40C7-8C14-D2A3E2EFEF49.jpg
Same kinda deal here, not sure how much that blade weighs, but is in the neighborhood of 2200. I recently excavated and moved about 40 yards of material 300 ish feet and it made things much better to leave the backhoe up. The weight of a full loader bucket is nicely counter balanced with a deployed backhoe.
 

DM3

New member
10
0
0
Location
Patten/Maine
Name: Darrell Mims
Town: Pattern
State: Maine
email: ​dmims@hughes.net
Phone: upon request
Will send frame No. when on next reply
 

The FLU farm

Active member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
2,624
11
38
Location
The actual midwest, NM.
These new posts, combined with my conscience, made me fire up the Winter SEE and move some dirt today. It's been on my mind for a while, because it hasn't been started up since the snow blower came off in...what, March?

Much to my delight, the air pressure gauge still showed 60 psi, and it started instantly. Life is good.

Of course, with a low of 31.1 last night, the next time it gets started could be to put the snow blower back on. Guess I should've just left it on there.DSCN2785[1].jpg
 

SeeNebraska

New member
71
0
0
Location
Nebraska
Fixed 2 things last night. the parking brake handle pulled completely out last winter and the door release button popped out of the door handle around the same time.

both turned out to be simple fixes.

for the parking brake, disconnecting the cable at the lever by the rear axle lets the cable be pushed up until it shows inside the cab. rethreaded the handle on the cable and tightened up the jam nut. slide the handle back in (you have to manually deflect the catch pin that is on the handle tube and the slide the handle back in. reattach the cable at the rear lever.

the door handle was a similar failure, the retention screw on the back of the button had vibrated loose and was down inside the door. simple matter of disassembling things far enough to be able to put that retention screw back in and then reassembly.

can't believe i waited >6 months to fix those two huge inconveniences!
 

Speedwoble

Member
419
6
18
Location
New Holland, PA
Sorry for the duplicate post.
As a helpful warning to anyone using their SEE for front loader digging, be carful not to use the low side intermediate gears when really driving hard into the ground.
The heilical gears look like they can put a bit of thrust loading and grenade the new style synchronizing ring for this gear group.
We had a customers SEE come in with this issue after some heavy digging with the front loader and had to rebuild /replace the transmission. The transmission takes around 60 man hours to pull and reinstall, let alone time for the rebuild along the some rather pricey parts.
Can't say for 100% sure this causes this, but the design looks like it's at fault and it's just not worth the risk when 1st gear direct is manageable for heavy digging.

hopefully this will save someone $14-$20k in this rebuild/repair
Just wanting to verify what you mean here.
The Group Shift lever to the left controls High, Low, or Reverse.
The Pneumatic Intermmediate shift selector on the Main Shifter controls the intermediate gears.
So did you mean just to not run the Intermediate Low and Group "I" at the same time? Or never run the intermediate in Low if we are towing something heavy.
I ended up bumping my engine to running backwards by trying to pull out a tree in 1,H,II.

shifter.jpgshifter 2.jpg
So if I want to minimize risk of damage, what is the lowest gear set I can use?
 
Last edited:

Jamesm417

New member
18
0
1
Location
Alaska
I think I need to replace the original, screw top, primer.
Searching the Internet, I come up with two Bosch part numbers, bosch 2 447 222 125, and bosch 2 447 222 126.
Can anyone please tell me which one I need?

Thanks,

Jim
 

peakbagger

Member
502
5
18
Location
northern nh
If you a messing with the fuel system, make sure you order a gasket for the fuel strainer. Its a common issue that introduces air leaks on the suction side of the fuel system.
 

rtrask

Member
190
3
18
Location
Littleton, Colorado
Hi Everyone
What is your collective opinion on the KBI ether system on the 419? With all the cold weather we have been having and my intent to move it up to it's new home at about 8000 feet, cold starting has gotten onto my priority list. There was no cylinder on the metering solenoid when I got it, and the solenoid will not move. A replacement from KBI with the same part # is < 90$, and a cylinder of either is around 40$. plus hazardous material shipping of about 35$
Before I put money and effort into getting it functional again, I would like some feed back:
  1. How well does it work
  2. Has anyone tried an alternative,
  3. Has anyone tried to source the cylinder locally
  4. How long does one of those cylinders last i.e. about how many starts do you get out of one

Thanks in advance.
Ron
 

The FLU farm

Active member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
2,624
11
38
Location
The actual midwest, NM.
The one in my Winter SEE works fine. Almost too good, as it seems to squirt some ether into the system automatically, at each start. But that's okay since I like the smell.
I get the cans at the local Napa, but don't remember the cost. They're fairly cheap, though.
Changed the can in the Winter See once, which turned out to be about a third full still.
On the other FLUs I generally forget that the system exists, since the one "pulls the knob" by itself.
 

peakbagger

Member
502
5
18
Location
northern nh
I have not used it but I swear its set up to automatically inject ether no matter where the switch is set if the temp is below a certain setpoint. I think the switch just adds an extra dose. I did check with the Napa warehouse a year ago and they stocked it so any dealer they ship to could get in in day or two.
 
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