FLU419 SEE HMMH HME Owners group

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The FLU farm

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Hmm. I thought I posted a pic of their new "house" (okay, carport) a while back?

Anyway, the HMMH has a corner spot, then the Winter SEE, and next to it is the Summer SEE. Guess I'll take a new photo tomorrow, proving that I got the tire chains and snow blower installed on the Winter SEE a couple of days ago.

And would you believe that getting that one ready made it not snow nearly as much as predicted?
 

Pinsandpitons

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Central Washington
My ether system was leaking when I got my see so I just removed it. It starts great down to about 10 F (coldest I've tried). Point being that I'm not sure how necessary it is and secondly, if one really wanted to give her a little shot, the intake is an easy reach from the drivers seat with a spray can of ether conveniently kept in the cab during the cold months.
 

The FLU farm

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Hey, FLU Farm, do you keep them all lined-up and separated by season?!

- The Summer SEE'S here

- The Winter SEE'S over there...


:driver::doghead::driver:
Here you go, from left to right; Summer, Winter, and all season.

Of course, I use them as needed and the "Winter" moniker is because that's the one that's set up to accept the snow blower. Conversely, the Summer SEE has the better wheels and tires (and bucket) for doing normal ditch work.

But since they're all like a big Lego, most anything could be switched around to serve a different purpose.DSCN2991[1].jpg
 

The FLU farm

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The headers are solid lumber, but not solid enough for my liking. A glue lam would've probably been better.
I'll weld up some steel supports at some point. At least the posts are real steel, not firewood like the headers.
 

Another Ahab

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The headers are solid lumber, but not solid enough for my liking. A glue lam would've probably been better.
I'll weld up some steel supports at some point. At least the posts are real steel, not firewood like the headers.
Wondered about that. Ease your mind:

- Throw on what we used to call a "flitch plate" on either side of it (around 24"-36" of plate steel, 1/8"-3/16" should be plenty). On either side, screwed or bolted, centered on the center-line of each header. That's where it wants to go soft (IF it ever does, likely fine even as is).

Somebody else here might know better, but that should do you fine.
 
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rtrask

Member
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Location
Littleton, Colorado
My ether system was leaking when I got my see so I just removed it. It starts great down to about 10 F (coldest I've tried). Point being that I'm not sure how necessary it is and secondly, if one really wanted to give her a little shot, the intake is an easy reach from the drivers seat with a spray can of ether conveniently kept in the cab during the cold months.
To date it has started every time I tried (at least since I took the starter apart, cleaned and re-lubed it). What prompted me to ask is when it's warm it starts on the first turn, but last time I tried it was probably around freezing ~ 30° F and it probably fired after 3 revolutions. Not terrible but I was assuming would not start if the temperature was much lower than that.

The cheapest solution is to try it, and then ask myself if I really need to start it if it's that cold. If the answer is yes it is not that big of a deal to do it manually.

After reading the posts, I think I would figure out a way to prevent it from injecting ether through out most of the year. The way that people are describing it I think there must be something wrong with the temperature sensor. I would rather have it only inject when I pull the nob, and I am pretty sure that can be managed fairly easily.
 

The FLU farm

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Guess I could pull the canister off, which would stop the year-round injection, or fix whatever causes it. But why? As mentioned, I like the smell.
As long as mine starts down to -20, I'm happy. That's about as cold as it gets here.

Of course, if I somehow forgot the anti-gel it really wouldn't matter if they start or not. So far I haven't.
 

rtrask

Member
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Location
Littleton, Colorado
Guess I could pull the canister off, which would stop the year-round injection, or fix whatever causes it. But why? As mentioned, I like the smell.
As long as mine starts down to -20, I'm happy. That's about as cold as it gets here.

Of course, if I somehow forgot the anti-gel it really wouldn't matter if they start or not. So far I haven't.
When you replaced your canister, where did you buy it, and how much (approximately) did you pay?
 

The FLU farm

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Bought it at the local NAPA, but it was years ago so I don't remember the price. It wasn't expensive.
Actually, I thought that they wouldn't last very long, and bought several. And the one I did change (on the Winter SEE) turned out not to be empty.
 

peakbagger

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northern nh
Remember, if you are running the SEE below freezing you need to fill the alcohol bottle (assuming its not smashed) and turn the valve on at the alcohol injector. Other wise you are risking a freezeup in the air system.
 

rtrask

Member
190
3
18
Location
Littleton, Colorado
Remember, if you are running the SEE below freezing you need to fill the alcohol bottle (assuming its not smashed) and turn the valve on at the alcohol injector. Other wise you are risking a freezeup in the air system.
Thanks peakbagger, I got the alcohol injector sorted out last year. That is a good reminder though for cold weather.
 

Pinsandpitons

Member
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18
Location
Central Washington
My thoughts exactly. Perhaps I can squeeze a little bit more wisdom out of it though; does anyone know what that plastic “module“ right near the heater in the drivers foot well does? I can’t figure out what it is from the schematics or the TMs. It just plugs into the wiring harness, has five or seven contacts in it, and a little circuitboard inside. I know it has a circuitboard because I broke it and when I unplugged it nothing bad seemed to happen.
 
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