GovPlanet Humvee Arrival and Inspection

[Maxjeep1]

I highly suggest you steer clear of DCP…you’ve been warned, unless you want to install that pump a few more times.

Who would you suggest if you had to get one rebuilt? the whole world is out of new ones so rebuild is your only path. I got a new one like you suggested but I would like to get my bad pump rebuilt. I was thinking about DCP but not anymore. I think I heard about a place in porterville mentioned in a thread here.

 

[jake20]

@Retiredwarhorses I just sent it off yesterday, too late now I guess. Any major things I should look for once I get it back then? I can post my experience here for others to learn from worst case.

 

[Retiredwarhorses]

@Retiredwarhorses I just sent it off yesterday, too late now I guess. Any major things I should look for once I get it back then? I can post my experience here for others to learn from worst case.

first off, looking at your pics of your pump? that pump is not rebuildable, I’ve sent tons of pump to DCP before Stewart left and they were fine, once he left…forget it, every pump I got back was garbage, I still have pumps in the box on the shelf I don’t use. DCP does not replace the most critical components like the rotor, do your self a favor, call MAC motors and order a 5149, call DCP and tell them to keep the pump…it’s worthless as a core, or send it back, hopefully you removed the TPS as you will need that for another pump. MAC motors and HPG both sell rebuilt pumps.

 

[Retiredwarhorses]

Who would you suggest if you had to get one rebuilt? the whole world is out of new ones so rebuild is your only path. I got a new one like you suggested but I would like to get my bad pump rebuilt. I was thinking about DCP but not anymore. I think I heard about a place in porterville mentioned on a thread here.

Yours was a turbo pump, they are much more plentiful on the surplus market.

 

[REF]

This is who we use . BUT If you have a truck dealership (freightliner, peterbuilt, Kenworth) or a tractor dealership in your area Call them, They either have a fuel shop in house or have one they use for their pumps and can recommend.
EM Tharp / Golden State Peterbuilt

 

[INFChief]

I highly suggest you steer clear of DCP…you’ve been warned, unless you want to install that pump a few more times.

Who / what is DCP?

 

[Retiredwarhorses]

This is who we use . BUT If you have a truck dealership (freightliner, peterbuilt, Kenworth) or a tractor dealership in your area Call them, They either have a fuel shop in house or have one they use for their pumps and can recommend.
EM Tharp / Golden State Peterbuilt

you need a shop that has test and calibration equipment for Stanadyne DB2 pumps, best is to look up a stanadyne shop.

 

[Retiredwarhorses]

Who / what is DCP?

Diesel care and Performance in Tennessee

 

[Milcommoguy]

This is who we use . BUT If you have a truck dealership (freightliner, peterbuilt, Kenworth) or a tractor dealership in your area Call them, They either have a fuel shop in house or have one they use for their pumps and can recommend.
EM Tharp / Golden State Peterbuilt

I second that... and have had a couple rebuilt. Won't be cheap...BUT IT WILL BE RIGHT. $100 per hour plus parts. Turn around times are quick.

Easy to talk to, too. Ask for Bruce on the counter. PH 559-782-5800 Over a hundred plus years of experience and all the test stands for calibration / Stanadyne parts.

Say you saw it here on SS, CAMO @ Camoteksystems.com

LINK> EM Tharp / Golden State Peterbuilt

 

[jake20]

Alright so given what I’ve been informed with:

1 - Rerouted the old pump shipment to come back to me, suppose I can keep / part out whatever remaining parts are good on it

2 - Called mac motors regarding their reman 5149 pumps. If this is what’s recommended, I’ll go with it and just cry once lol

3 - Cleaned up the intake manifold mating surface. Razor blade to get the big chunks, “Scuff Ball” power drill attachment to smooth it all nicely. I want to paint the exterior of it clean black, was thinking of the high temp engine paint from rust oleum. Just not sure how to prep it yet given the porous surface.

4 - Fixed almost all my wiring, had to re-splice / solder 5 wires, 1 more to go. I bought an M998 glow plug harness to cut up and use as a donor

Before / After pics attached

 

[Maxjeep1]

Alright so given what I’ve been informed with:

1 - Rerouted the old pump shipment to come back to me, suppose I can keep / part out whatever remaining parts are good on it

2 - Called mac motors regarding their reman 5149 pumps. If this is what’s recommended, I’ll go with it and just cry once lol

3 - Cleaned up the intake manifold mating surface. Razor blade to get the big chunks, “Scuff Ball” power drill attachment to smooth it all nicely. I want to paint the exterior of it clean black, was thinking of the high temp engine paint from rust oleum. Just not sure how to prep it yet given the porous surface.

4 - Fixed almost all my wiring, had to re-splice / solder 5 wires, 1 more to go. I bought an M998 glow plug harness to cut up and use as a donor

Before / After pics attached

Look at HPG website.. my new pump was 600.00 cheaper than MAC and 900.00 cheaper than AM General
Your stuff cleaned up nice

 

[jake20]

Look at HPG website.. my new pump was 600.00 cheaper than MAC and 900.00 cheaper than AM General
Your stuff cleaned up nice

Thanks! Don’t know how I want to tackle the intakes on the engine yet, maybe I’ll run a vacuum as I’m scraping. I’ve got it stuffed with rags but it’s not perfect.


As for the pump from HPG. I looked at their site and it was all more expensive than what mac quoted me. Do you know the exact model number you got? I’ll give em a call on Monday as well to make sure.

 

[Maxjeep1]

Thanks! Don’t know how I want to tackle the intakes on the engine yet, maybe I’ll run a vacuum as I’m scraping. I’ve got it stuffed with rags but it’s not perfect.


As for the pump from HPG. I looked at their site and it was all more expensive than what mac quoted me. Do you know the exact model number you got? I’ll give em a call on Monday as well to make sure.

I’m getting close to doing the same thing and I want to aggressively clean my valley and coat it with POR15. I’m thinking to use foil tape or maybe cut up my old gasket and wrap it up with duct tape and maybe throw some short bolts in it. I don’t know until I get there. I will cut up my kids pool noodle and stuff it in first.
Retiredwarhorses said to get a new pump and after I gave up on mine that’s what I did.

5714670 / 01-641-0042 2910-01-641-0042 - PUMP, FUEL INJECTION (MECHANICAL) {24V} [6.5L TD 190HP GEP] | Hummer Parts Guy (HPG)

www.hummerpartsguy.com

 

[Maxjeep1]

I don’t know enough to know the difference between pumps. I don’t know if you can buy the turbo pump and turn it down for your truck. I added a wicked wheel 2 and I will straight pipe my exhaust and open up the air canister so I will turn my new pump up from 12 to 3 o’clock position. I also added manual wastegate that I can adjust for more boost

 

[jake20]

Yep planning on cleaning up the gasket areas on the intakes and then painting the valley black as well. Need to see if I can find the drain hole that melton plugged.

I’ll check out the HPG pump and see what they say as well on Monday. Are the turbo pumps usually more expensive?

On another note, I received my turret hatch, B pillar supports, and lock rings from Eastern Surplus the other day. Great experience overall. Since the original turret support rings aren’t really an option, I want to draw something up in CAD and see the feasibility of doing some fabrication. I’ll use the dimensions of my bearing and go from there. May need to scrounge for some dimensions off the original but I’ll see how it goes.

For now though, I’ll see if I can just plop it on the roof and secure it statically.

The adventure continues…

 

[Retiredwarhorses]

I’m getting close to doing the same thing and I want to aggressively clean my valley and coat it with POR15. I’m thinking to use foil tape or maybe cut up my old gasket and wrap it up with duct tape and maybe throw some short bolts in it. I don’t know until I get there. I will cut up my kids pool noodle and stuff it in first.
Retiredwarhorses said to get a new pump and after I gave up on mine that’s what I did.

5714670 / 01-641-0042 2910-01-641-0042 - PUMP, FUEL INJECTION (MECHANICAL) {24V} [6.5L TD 190HP GEP] | Hummer Parts Guy (HPG)

www.hummerpartsguy.com

To be fair, I say new pump in the sense that the old pump is bad and a new pump is required, that pump could be a new, used or rebuilt pump…just not the broken pump in your truck.
The availability of a pump and it’s price will dictate if I go rebuilt or new, I’ve found new for less than rebuilt some times, but buying from a distributor means, if you have a bad pump, you can get another sent right out and warrantied, that’s not the case on a rebuilder, especially DSC…I’ve had over 6 week turnarounds from DSC on warranty repair, only for them to lose the pump and when it arrives back in the shop, it’s damaged in shipment from crap packaging, and the cherry on top is the pump still doesn’t work correctly…the rebuilt 5149’s from MAC have been 100% as good as new so far, they are done by a TACOM approved rebuilder per MAC motors, they sell these to the US military

 

[jake20]

So as a general question on the wiring in these trucks. I’ve noticed that some connections are indicated as being polarized, as one rubber boot connector will be smooth and round, while the other connector will have small dashes around it. Does this generally mean that connections having 2 identical connectors aren’t polarized?

For example, the cold advance plug has 2 unmarked smooth connectors sticking out of it. No clear indication of which direction the angry pixies should flow. The cold advance specifically seems to be a temperature based resistor of sorts, so I guess it might be a case that doesn’t matter.

Just an observation I felt warranted the ask.

 

[jake20]

Alright so a few exciting things.

- 5149 pump from Mac Motors comes in today, price was more than I wanted to pay, but I said screw it and I'll just take the peace of mind. Ordering and shipment were incredibly quick and easy though, super helpful over the phone

- Intake manifold has been stripped to bare metal, primed with Rust-Oleum high temp primer, and re-painted with Rust-Oleum high temp engine enamel

- Removed the #5 injector line, the pump-side of the line is badly pitted and rusted

- Scraping gasket material off the engine intakes is a less-than-desirable process. A few of the manifold bolt holes go all the way through and into the valve area, is any sort of thread sealant recommended when re-installing those bolts?

- I made some rudimentary measurements for the turret ring / bearing system and started to draw something up, will see if I can have an acrylic sample laser cut for test fitting

 

[Coug]

*snip*

- Scraping gasket material off the engine intakes is a less-than-desirable process. A few of the manifold bolt holes go all the way through and into the valve area, is any sort of thread sealant recommended when re-installing those bolts?

*snip*

Looking in the -34 manual for intake manifold installation it doesn't mention anything about sealants on any bolt threads.

 

[jake20]

Looking in the -34 manual for intake manifold installation it doesn't mention anything about sealants on any bolt threads.

I concur with these findings per the TM, although when I pulled a few of my studs/bolts, they had a silicone-type sealant on them it seemed. I also recall another member mentioning it somewhere else. I suppose it might not really matter heh