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Update pix on the 12 volt AC unit. wired direct to the fuse panel lugs.
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LMTV Air Conditioner
- Thread starter dporter110
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Installed and charged with 134A , easy install, and only small cuts required in the roof of the cab. 
Adventure Driven
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hello Seth,
these units are widely used overseas, and I believe they are trying to break in to the US market. price breaks at 5 units or more,
We will do a 6 month test on it to see how they hold up in extreme use.
The brand name is Vehiclima, model VDC20D/12V or 24 volt
USD965/unit
Payment Terms: T/T, 100% in advance.
Delivery Time: 15 days after down payment is received.
Warranty Period: 2 years
these units are widely used overseas, and I believe they are trying to break in to the US market. price breaks at 5 units or more,
We will do a 6 month test on it to see how they hold up in extreme use.
The brand name is Vehiclima, model VDC20D/12V or 24 volt
USD965/unit
Payment Terms: T/T, 100% in advance.
Delivery Time: 15 days after down payment is received.
Warranty Period: 2 years
coachgeo
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Look forward to test. The BTU for the unit is listed as 8600
scottmandu
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That's about 1/3 of the BTU of the factory A/C.
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Why not just purchase an RV Roof Unit (115vac) and run off batteries with an inverter? This looks like less $$ right around $1,000 including the inside control panel.
I have also looked into the Chinese made roof units. Hella expensive at nearly $3,000 ea.
Pointman
I have also looked into the Chinese made roof units. Hella expensive at nearly $3,000 ea.
Pointman
coachgeo
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By time you buy and create means to mount batteries, generator, and converter you're as expensive as the FMTV model or something similar .... though much easier to install. Granted that is not including what you may have already or buying used. IMHO if one is considering this get something with a DC inverter in it. These are far far more energy efficient... so smaller genny and/or less batteries needed. So far these are mostly home units (portable AC's , a few window units and split types) I've not yet researched if any RV types are DC/Inverter models.
Last edited:
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120 v Ac units pull too many amps, for that application, inverted.
the Chinese made units are 900$ around 800 for bulk orders over 3.
So far, happy with the unit, still op checking and testing the unit in some extreme temps,
58 degree outlet temps, blowing right on you is plenty.
we will countinue testing in extreme summer and report back .
the Chinese made units are 900$ around 800 for bulk orders over 3.
So far, happy with the unit, still op checking and testing the unit in some extreme temps,
58 degree outlet temps, blowing right on you is plenty.
we will countinue testing in extreme summer and report back .
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Another thing I like, on an external battery bank, engine OFF.. The unit will run for 8 hours before switch auto shuts down unit/ due to low voltage.
//// think waiting at Ferry, or traffic where youvwant to shut engine off, etc.
//// think waiting at Ferry, or traffic where youvwant to shut engine off, etc.
scottmandu
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That certainly has it's benefits. You can run a generator to charge the batts instead of running the main engine.
lesrrt
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Just spent hours reading these remarkable threads. All good info for sure, and waiting to hear final consensus on the results of these units: Roof mount vs conventional vs Hybrids. Tinting and insulation are key for keeping BTU demand down thus, less power/via static or electrical to run a selected unit. All good info. I am in the market for 1078 in the future and AC has already being planned.
Great read Gentleman!
Great read Gentleman!
KEN2
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It is now Hot June. How is the a/c working? What would you charge for one of these installed?
ramdough
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Anyone using the MRAP condensers on these? They appear to be GIANT.
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scottmandu
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They are huge, at least twice if not 3 times the size of the LMTV condenser. A guy with a screen name of Kevin something used one but I don't think his was working well last I read.
ramdough
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Do the gen 2 evaporators use an expansion valve or an orifice?
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scottmandu
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I fairly sure they use an expansion block similar to what many auto manufactures used used in the 90's.
ramdough
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I read on a vintage air tutorial that the condenser should be 1.25x larger than the evaporator. That would imply that the condenser should be 35,000 BTU/hr if the gen2 evaporator is 26,000 BTU/hr.
Is that what everyone else is concluding?
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Is that what everyone else is concluding?
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Hello,
to save you money, these units can be installed by most any
RV shop, and charged by most all HVAC companies.
We would not have time to install these on trucks other than our own.
- testing these units is a bit of w long drawn out process, which involves
stressing all the componants looking for failures.
we are also attaching "water maker" system to it, which will draw condensate water
from the air and fill a resevoir / tap for emergency water.
neat system.
to save you money, these units can be installed by most any
RV shop, and charged by most all HVAC companies.
We would not have time to install these on trucks other than our own.
- testing these units is a bit of w long drawn out process, which involves
stressing all the componants looking for failures.
we are also attaching "water maker" system to it, which will draw condensate water
from the air and fill a resevoir / tap for emergency water.
neat system.
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I used a 16x21 universal parallel flow condenser and so far seems to be working fine. A 20 x20 or 21x21 probably would fit between the intercooler and radiator and i would go that route next time since the cost is similar and generally bigger is better. The advice I received from vintage air and other similar companies was to use the biggest condenser that would fit. They couldn't advise on size based on BTU ratings. Parallel flow is more efficient than the tube and fin design and don't need to be as big. I saw some people have used condensers from MRAP's, if you go that route I wouldn't mount it with the tubes vertical, as the refrigerant condenses and turns back to a liquid it needs be able to flow downward without restriction.