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What have you done to your 5 ton this week?
- Thread starter dezert ratt
- Start date
Csm Davis
Well-known member
Looks like you ABS lite is on and your back window is busted out also, you fiend!
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New batts. New lugs. Temporary strap. Battery cutoff. Room to add 2 more batts and can isolate when not in use so don't have to worry about dissimilar batteries self discharging.
That picture was taken while he was on the towbar behind Simp's truck, because he ran out of fuel that time. Not sure which particular time though. Just pick one...you have a 20% chance of being right...
I look at the rating. If the 4 and 5 star ratings are close to 90%, and there are numerous ratings, (over 100) I'll give it a shot. This had 220 ratings and 90% were 4&5 star. Done.
Im not going to say these are the same as JW Speaker lights, but, ironically, both of them have 90% 4&5 star ratings. JW were $490/pair. I just can't justify that. Maybe it is worth it, maybe I need to learn my lesson on cheap lights first? I dunno. This is the route I have chosen! Let's see what happens.
Time will tell. If they don't make it a year, I'll trade them in and buy something different next time. I did it because it was a low priced opportunity to test out a different kind of light. Not sure I would have done it at full price without having tested them first, but the "scratch and dent" model at $17, was enough to make me do it!
The new one showed up yesterday, so I'll probably install today and give it a night run to see what it looks like. Wish I would have thought about a before and after shot, but I'm not taking it apart to do that. Sorry.
Are those Group 31 batteries? If so, I still have the battery retainer I made from when I had a 2 battery setup. It uses 2 of the factory retainer rods to secure it. It's well made but I'll never need it again. Yours for the cost of shipping if interested...
I bought this air tank a couple years ago to add to the air system on my truck. It's been kicked, thrown and just about thrown away many times because it's always in the way. I decided it was time to put it to use...
I think this was was a tank from a HEMTT but the sticker with the NSN on it is long gone. It is a single chamber tank and some quick measurements/math show it being 2.86 times larger than the factory tanks. I didn't figure capacity because I'm lazy but it's basically adding 2-1/2 factory tanks to the system.
I wanted to mount it under the bed but it just wouldn't fit. I don't use the spare tire rack so this made for an accessible mounting location since I planned to add a standard air chuck. It is mounted in what would be unused space anyways, because the box I plan to mount in the rack doesn't go that far back.
I made some U-bolts out of 3/8" all-thread. I used some Parker push-to-connect DOT fittings and 1/2" DOT air line from an MRAP kit to tie it all in. The line ties in before the wet tank. With the supply line connected to the bottom of the tank and the supply line running downhill to the wet tank, another drain valve is not needed. Any moisture that makes it past the air dryer, which I never have, will end up in the wet tank and can be drained from there.
The main reason for adding the tank was for my bed crane. It has an air over hydraulic lift cylinder but the factory air system doesn't have enough capacity to raise the boom all the way up before it runs out. A secondary benefit is extra capacity during tight maneuvering in the woods. I can make 4 full pedal applications and only drop 5 psi on the gauges now.
I think this was was a tank from a HEMTT but the sticker with the NSN on it is long gone. It is a single chamber tank and some quick measurements/math show it being 2.86 times larger than the factory tanks. I didn't figure capacity because I'm lazy but it's basically adding 2-1/2 factory tanks to the system.
I wanted to mount it under the bed but it just wouldn't fit. I don't use the spare tire rack so this made for an accessible mounting location since I planned to add a standard air chuck. It is mounted in what would be unused space anyways, because the box I plan to mount in the rack doesn't go that far back.
I made some U-bolts out of 3/8" all-thread. I used some Parker push-to-connect DOT fittings and 1/2" DOT air line from an MRAP kit to tie it all in. The line ties in before the wet tank. With the supply line connected to the bottom of the tank and the supply line running downhill to the wet tank, another drain valve is not needed. Any moisture that makes it past the air dryer, which I never have, will end up in the wet tank and can be drained from there.
The main reason for adding the tank was for my bed crane. It has an air over hydraulic lift cylinder but the factory air system doesn't have enough capacity to raise the boom all the way up before it runs out. A secondary benefit is extra capacity during tight maneuvering in the woods. I can make 4 full pedal applications and only drop 5 psi on the gauges now.
74M35A2
Well-known member
High speed model. It will soon be the fastest 9 with a broken back window. I leave it just so all of you will have something to talk about.
Group 65s
Higher CCA but lower reserve.
They cranked over for a bit without issue, as I had just replaced the PT pump after fixing a couple leaks...
I definitely appreciate the offer, but I got L channel I'm gonna be using.
Replaced my main Abs valve that was leaking with an R8 valve off a non abs 939. Costs about $20.
Trying to find air leaks and crap. I have an issue that the truck wont build past 70 or so at idle. Rev up itll build air. Let it idle it drops on the secondary side. Found a few air leaks and fixed em. Secondary still drops with ppv side closed and primary side closed. Compressor is running all the time. Purge valve is not stuck open. It is not massively dumping air with the pedal applied. I sprayed just about every air fitting on the truck.
One way primary valve is leaking over as well. It must be a good leak as itll drop 20lbs of air in 15 seconds when the truck is running. I did replace the governor with a good one. I am working on it as best i can. And will look at it tomorrow.
Installed some new battery terminals as well And changed the oil.
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Trying to find air leaks and crap. I have an issue that the truck wont build past 70 or so at idle. Rev up itll build air. Let it idle it drops on the secondary side. Found a few air leaks and fixed em. Secondary still drops with ppv side closed and primary side closed. Compressor is running all the time. Purge valve is not stuck open. It is not massively dumping air with the pedal applied. I sprayed just about every air fitting on the truck.
One way primary valve is leaking over as well. It must be a good leak as itll drop 20lbs of air in 15 seconds when the truck is running. I did replace the governor with a good one. I am working on it as best i can. And will look at it tomorrow.
Installed some new battery terminals as well And changed the oil.
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SD, if it's still up for grabs, I'd like it please. Thanks. Will PM.
kungfu dave
Member
This week I attempted to stop my roof leak. I have the ROPS cab on my M939A2 and the turret cover would leak periodically. I tried to loosen one of the bolts on top w/a wrench and wound up sheering it off. I would prefer not to do this to the rest of them so I am hoping one of you guys has experience with breaking them loose, without actually breaking them. I have tried soaking the top ones with no luck. Not sure how to address the ones in the cab as they are upside down.
Kroil
kungfu dave
Member
Did that work on your ROPS cab?
gottaluvit
Well-known member
It works to break free corroded fastners. It "creeps".
Kroil was my favorite rust bolt loosener and gun cleaner until someone told me about the one penetrating oil that outperformed Kroil in a rusty bolt scientific test.
50:50 ATF and Acetone. It works, and you don’t have to be really cautious with it because of the cost. ATF and Acetone are not nearly as expensive as Kroil.
Since s I can’t see your inner bolts, see if there is a practical way to fill a cup with the mixture and hold the filled container up so the threads get soaked? May not be possible. Any way to get at those threads from the outside?
Good lick. Try the Acetone ATF fluid mix. It’s stinky, but so was Kroil.
farmerboywyotech
Member
Whats the unloader valve in the compressor look like? I chased my tail until i finally broke down and rebuilt it. Im guessing it had issues since i brought it home. Just a thought.Replaced my main Abs valve that was leaking with an R8 valve off a non abs 939. Costs about $20.
Trying to find air leaks and crap. I have an issue that the truck wont build past 70 or so at idle. Rev up itll build air. Let it idle it drops on the secondary side. Found a few air leaks and fixed em. Secondary still drops with ppv side closed and primary side closed. Compressor is running all the time. Purge valve is not stuck open. It is not massively dumping air with the pedal applied. I sprayed just about every air fitting on the truck.
One way primary valve is leaking over as well. It must be a good leak as itll drop 20lbs of air in 15 seconds when the truck is running. I did replace the governor with a good one. I am working on it as best i can. And will look at it tomorrow.
Installed some new battery terminals as well And changed the oil.
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farmerboywyotech
Member
https://youtu.be/WtqQSOiOw1A
https://youtu.be/vHfMkSyvR6M
https://youtu.be/156i5hxyI4g
Did some testing of my new hoist setup.
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Did some testing of my new hoist setup.
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