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If you let this sit without plugs, I hope you blocked the holes with painter’s tape. Dust or water gets in and you will have a problem. Stuff like this should never just sit open and should probably be finished at the same time as old part removal.
Don't get me too excited now.. I could UV dye it but either way I have to get into it. I'll check the injection system as well for timing. Do you have a link on how to do that by chance?A new rebuild going bad is suspicious.
I would magnaflux or UV dye the heads and the block.
You might have a crack.
Before pulling the heads, run EGT's to ensure temps are not too high.
You sure fuel injector system not advanced on this fresh rebuild? That would elevate EGT's and cause damage.
I installed a civvy 24V solid state flasher to replace my military incandescent version. I didn’t want to buy the $50 military version so I adapted a Nartron 11613631 from theBay. I cut the plug off the old flasher and soldered the wires of the Nartron onto it so I could keep the military harness intact.
For those interested, here is the wiring:
57K to Nartron Black wire
325A to Nartron White wire
325B to Nartron Red wire
Will see how it holds up.
I started with that in mind but my flasher was potted with ancient vinyl cement or some such. Hard as rock. I gave up and just whacked off the connector.There is an old thread about how to do something like this by opening up and gutting the military flasher unit and soldering in a civvy unit in order to keep your rig looking OEM.
Either way, nice work!
They're 1/2-13. That's one of the largest sizes of rivnut made and requires a $200+ tool for that one. I was looking into those before I installed these, because I'd love to not require two people to replace one of these in the future...Rivnut?
I think my cover plate underneath has a hole in it with a plastic bung stuck in it.. Remove plastic bung and I believe it has access to that nut /washer.. If I’m not mistaken that cover piece is fairly thin, you may be able to drill an access hole and use a plastic hole cover when done... Just thinking out loud...Got busy with the fuel system again. Finished up with replacing the gaskets and hoses and now have the tank ready to raise into place. I also cut the panel out of the floor for the fuel access and got it all setup. Then after my wife got back home, I enlisted her help to get my missing cargo hooks installed in the floor. (Most of them...)
Now what's got me perplexed is getting the cargo barrier support/cargo hook combo bracket setup correctly. It has a 1/2-13 x 1 3/4 bolt that drops through the bracket and into the floor...but the kicker is, the bolt drops into a C-channel that has a cover plate riveted on, making the only access possible by reaching through the rear seat footwell through a 1 1/2 inch opening. Is there any easy, reasonable way to get this in-place that I'm not seeing? Right now my best thought is to use my handiclamp to hold the nut, apply a tiny bit of grease to stick the washer to the nut, and have someone up top spin it to finger-tight, then get a thin wrench in its place to finish the job.
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