What have you done to your HMMWV today/lately

Steel Soldiers is supported by:

Wire Fox

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,238
84
48
Location
Indianapolis, Indiana
Fuel tank is back in the HMMWV! No leaks, and it runs just fine, as I was apparently lucky enough to not need to bleed the system. However, nothing is ever entirely free of issue...

The new style fuel sender isn't reading correctly. The tank is physically about 2/3 full, but the gauge only climbed to the E. When it was empty, it was pegged flat to bottom of the gauge housing and proportionally climbed to the E as I filled it. For giggles, I tried flipping the polarity of the sender at the tank (nice having that access hatch now...), but it made no effect at all. When the sender is disconnected, the gauge shoots over to about the 3/4 fill area. If anyone has any ideas, let me know. I'll be researching it when I'm done cooking dinner, but would be happy to hear some ideas before I hit the books.

Sent from my Nokia 6.1 using Tapatalk
 

TOBASH

Father, Surgeon, Cantankerous Grouch
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,330
186
63
Location
Brooklyn, NY
Check the polarity at the guage. Mine did weird crap and it was an issue with polarity at the guage.
 

Wire Fox

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,238
84
48
Location
Indianapolis, Indiana
Check the polarity at the guage. Mine did weird crap and it was an issue with polarity at the guage.
Seemed like a fast test, so I did that. Opposite polarity flatlines the gauge, so it's not that. I'm starting the wire jiggles, so we'll see if it's a poor connection somewhere causing extra resistance/partial ground short...

This is going to be real special if both my fuel sender AND gauge were actually bad.

EDIT: I just ran the troubleshooting guide from the 20-1 TM on the fuel gauge. Everything was all in the normal right until the last step: with 28A open, does the fuel gauge read at or above Full? For my gauge, the answer is no. The corrective action for that response is to replace the gauge.

Time to order a part.

Sent from my Nokia 6.1 using Tapatalk
 
Last edited:

Milcommoguy

Active member
508
121
43
Location
Rosamond, CA
It's the sender and your stuck with it. There is no calibration that I am aware of... like you could bend the float arm to get he gauge to track with the volume of fuel. Kinda sucks too. 🍋

I like mine when topped off to be above the full "F" line. Now it a tad bit below. When on "E" I have a 1/4 tank when crawling under and checking with a flashlight. I guess that a good thing to start looking for fuel on "E".

The other thing is not being a linear readout as in a wiper resistor in "old school" senders. It has fixed resistor and steps thru 6 or 7 points. NO in between reads.

Not that my HumV didn't already have personality, CAMO
 

TOBASH

Father, Surgeon, Cantankerous Grouch
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,330
186
63
Location
Brooklyn, NY
Fuel tank is back in the HMMWV! No leaks, and it runs just fine, as I was apparently lucky enough to not need to bleed the system. However, nothing is ever entirely free of issue...

The new style fuel sender isn't reading correctly. The tank is physically about 2/3 full, but the gauge only climbed to the E. When it was empty, it was pegged flat to bottom of the gauge housing and proportionally climbed to the E as I filled it. For giggles, I tried flipping the polarity of the sender at the tank (nice having that access hatch now...), but it made no effect at all. When the sender is disconnected, the gauge shoots over to about the 3/4 fill area. If anyone has any ideas, let me know. I'll be researching it when I'm done cooking dinner, but would be happy to hear some ideas before I hit the books.

Sent from my Nokia 6.1 using Tapatalk
I'm sure you know but.... Did you check and correct the gauge cluster ground?
 

Wire Fox

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,238
84
48
Location
Indianapolis, Indiana
It's the sender and your stuck with it. There is no calibration that I am aware of... like you could bend the float arm to get he gauge to track with the volume of fuel. Kinda sucks too.

I like mine when topped off to be above the full "F" line. Now it a tad bit below. When on "E" I have a 1/4 tank when crawling under and checking with a flashlight. I guess that a good thing to start looking for fuel on "E".

The other thing is not being a linear readout as in a wiper resistor in "old school" senders. It has fixed resistor and steps thru 6 or 7 points. NO in between reads.

Not that my HumV didn't already have personality, CAMO
I think you might have missed a bit of text out of what I wrote. In following the testing procedures for the gauge, my gauge never was able to display the full range of movement. It basically goes from the bottom of the glass, way below E, to a hypothetical maximum of around 2/3-3/4 Full. That's by using the lowest possible value and the highest possible value the sender can throw.

The reality is that it won't actually throw that far. At 3/4 of a tank, I've just barely broken above E. Most of the gauge's life is going to be somewhere way below E, including being totally out of range. I don't need this kind of always-empty pessimism in my life!

Sent from my Nokia 6.1 using Tapatalk
 

twisted60

Member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
453
22
18
Location
Jupiter, Florida
Got bored so put together a flasher unit thanks to ideas and input from members. Nothing fancy just a 1"x2"x6" aluminum piece, a Grote flasher, mouser 3 pin connector, a 20amp circuit breaker and a couple rivnuts. It works good but did not fix my issue of turn signals not working with headlights on...so still checking other stuff. Mouser was excellent, great customer service and fast shipping. Flasher and CB from the 'zon. Probably don't need the CB but other flasher units say to add fuse in power line so why not and it's self resetting so no problem. Rivnuts make mounting very easy, mounts in oridginal location. Pictures show everything but if anyone has a question just PM me and I'll be happy to answer them.
IMG_3524.JPGIMG_3525.JPGIMG_3526.JPGIMG_3527.JPGIMG_3528.JPG
Hope this helps someone.
 

Bulldogger

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,024
58
48
Location
Alexandria VA
Got bored so put together a flasher unit thanks to ideas and input from members. Nothing fancy just a 1"x2"x6" aluminum piece, a Grote flasher, mouser 3 pin connector, a 20amp circuit breaker and a couple rivnuts. It works good but did not fix my issue of turn signals not working with headlights on...so still checking other stuff. Mouser was excellent, great customer service and fast shipping. Flasher and CB from the 'zon. Probably don't need the CB but other flasher units say to add fuse in power line so why not and it's self resetting so no problem. Rivnuts make mounting very easy, mounts in oridginal location. Pictures show everything but if anyone has a question just PM me and I'll be happy to answer them.
View attachment 799563
Hope this helps someone.
Pretty slick, but how much did all that cost? Biggest advantage I can see is that the replacement flasher if you ever need one is easier to get and cheaper.
Otherwise, it sure looks like more than the $40 for a military solid state replacement version.

I do admire your work though, it's much cleaner than the cobbled job I did on mine.

Bulldogger
 

twisted60

Member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
453
22
18
Location
Jupiter, Florida
Pretty slick, but how much did all that cost? Biggest advantage I can see is that the replacement flasher if you ever need one is easier to get and cheaper.
Otherwise, it sure looks like more than the $40 for a military solid state replacement version.

I do admire your work though, it's much cleaner than the cobbled job I did on mine.

Bulldogger
Cost about $60 for parts and shipping labor was free. Thing is I’ll use it as a test bed, I plan to modify it to accept different flashers. I also put rivnuts in my old mil flasher unit, so much easier to remove now. The mil flasher unit in my M998 is solid state and reportedly LED compatible, direct replacement cost is over $200 on vender sites, I’ve tried the less expensive unit you mentioned but it didn’t fix my issue so I’m still troubleshooting that.
Thanks for the comments


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Wire Fox

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,238
84
48
Location
Indianapolis, Indiana
Finally! New fuel gauge came in yesterday and I installed it while waiting for a friend to show up so I could help him with his car. It immediately read a reasonable value for the fuel level, and a quick repeat of some of the troubleshooting tests showed behavior in-line with a good gauge. I haven't verified that it actually reads accurately at multiple fuel levels, but it's definitely close enough to keep me satisfied (as long I still have a bit of fuel when it hits E and a full tank is mostly at F, then I'm happy). It's been quite a bit of work, but now all of the following is about a year or less in age and should be working for a long time:

Injection Pump professional rebuild, fuel filter & water separator replaced and housing cleaned (well, will last as long as the maintenance schedule allows), all flexible fuel lines replaced, all hose clamps replaced, fuel tank pickup screen replaced, all fuel system gaskets & o-rings replaced, fuel sender (new style) replaced, fuel access door installed, deep-cleaned fuel tank, fuel tank plug replaced, and of course, the fuel level gauge replaced. I know my big areas to keep my eyes on are the injectors (they've had no service done, but have been working perfectly) and the fuel filters again, as I should expect more small debris to get picked up and quickly clog it.
 

hrbergeron

Active member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
163
73
28
Location
Yorktown, VA
Got the predator lightbar mount installed. The 52" LED light bar should arrive tomorrow. I'm also working on replacing all the wood troop carrier seats just in case I ever get to go to a parade again.

97126990_167102094728423_1493701776287727616_n.jpg
 

Inspector 1

Member
77
32
18
Location
Spring Texas
I Wanted to tidy up my 12 volt electrical accessories. I installed a 24/12 DC -DC converter. A 12 volt fuse box and a trickle charger. It really cleaned up the battery box compartment quite well.
 

Attachments

Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks