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Seemed like a fast test, so I did that. Opposite polarity flatlines the gauge, so it's not that. I'm starting the wire jiggles, so we'll see if it's a poor connection somewhere causing extra resistance/partial ground short...Check the polarity at the guage. Mine did weird crap and it was an issue with polarity at the guage.
I'm sure you know but.... Did you check and correct the gauge cluster ground?Fuel tank is back in the HMMWV! No leaks, and it runs just fine, as I was apparently lucky enough to not need to bleed the system. However, nothing is ever entirely free of issue...
The new style fuel sender isn't reading correctly. The tank is physically about 2/3 full, but the gauge only climbed to the E. When it was empty, it was pegged flat to bottom of the gauge housing and proportionally climbed to the E as I filled it. For giggles, I tried flipping the polarity of the sender at the tank (nice having that access hatch now...), but it made no effect at all. When the sender is disconnected, the gauge shoots over to about the 3/4 fill area. If anyone has any ideas, let me know. I'll be researching it when I'm done cooking dinner, but would be happy to hear some ideas before I hit the books.
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I think you might have missed a bit of text out of what I wrote. In following the testing procedures for the gauge, my gauge never was able to display the full range of movement. It basically goes from the bottom of the glass, way below E, to a hypothetical maximum of around 2/3-3/4 Full. That's by using the lowest possible value and the highest possible value the sender can throw.It's the sender and your stuck with it. There is no calibration that I am aware of... like you could bend the float arm to get he gauge to track with the volume of fuel. Kinda sucks too.
I like mine when topped off to be above the full "F" line. Now it a tad bit below. When on "E" I have a 1/4 tank when crawling under and checking with a flashlight. I guess that a good thing to start looking for fuel on "E".
The other thing is not being a linear readout as in a wiper resistor in "old school" senders. It has fixed resistor and steps thru 6 or 7 points. NO in between reads.
Not that my HumV didn't already have personality, CAMO
Pretty slick, but how much did all that cost? Biggest advantage I can see is that the replacement flasher if you ever need one is easier to get and cheaper.Got bored so put together a flasher unit thanks to ideas and input from members. Nothing fancy just a 1"x2"x6" aluminum piece, a Grote flasher, mouser 3 pin connector, a 20amp circuit breaker and a couple rivnuts. It works good but did not fix my issue of turn signals not working with headlights on...so still checking other stuff. Mouser was excellent, great customer service and fast shipping. Flasher and CB from the 'zon. Probably don't need the CB but other flasher units say to add fuse in power line so why not and it's self resetting so no problem. Rivnuts make mounting very easy, mounts in oridginal location. Pictures show everything but if anyone has a question just PM me and I'll be happy to answer them.
View attachment 799563
Hope this helps someone.
Cost about $60 for parts and shipping labor was free. Thing is I’ll use it as a test bed, I plan to modify it to accept different flashers. I also put rivnuts in my old mil flasher unit, so much easier to remove now. The mil flasher unit in my M998 is solid state and reportedly LED compatible, direct replacement cost is over $200 on vender sites, I’ve tried the less expensive unit you mentioned but it didn’t fix my issue so I’m still troubleshooting that.Pretty slick, but how much did all that cost? Biggest advantage I can see is that the replacement flasher if you ever need one is easier to get and cheaper.
Otherwise, it sure looks like more than the $40 for a military solid state replacement version.
I do admire your work though, it's much cleaner than the cobbled job I did on mine.
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