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What have you done to your HMMWV today/lately

HoveringHMMWV

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Although cosmetic in nature, I started adding 3/8" socket button head screws w/ washers to fill in the holes left by the demil process. I also included rubber washers under each backside steel washer to hopefully make them water/moisture proof. I started the process by priming and painting all of the individual components. I chose the 3/8" size because they would fit under the door hinges without impeding their function.

IMG_9680.JPG
 

rcamacho

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812
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Location
Bainbridge Island Wa
Diagnosing poor Turbo output. Thanks for advice RWH. Disconnected exhaust prior to catalytic converter and it whistles just fine

Tempted to try cleaning the cat with an acid wash or just punching it out. Replacements are very expensive.


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TOBASH

Father, Surgeon, Cantankerous Grouch
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Brooklyn, NY
Diagnosing poor Turbo output. Thanks for advice RWH. Disconnected exhaust prior to catalytic converter and it whistles just fine

Tempted to try cleaning the cat with an acid wash or just punching it out. Replacements are very expensive.


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Punching out a catalytic converter is illegal and is a felony.

Replacement is the ideal solution.
 

Mainsail

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Puget Sound, WA
I have some ductwork missing on mine- the HAVC duct that connects the left to the right. I can't help but think the system would be more efficient if they were connected. Problem is, I'm not replacing something that's already there, I'm trying to fill in a gap - I don't know what part and how it's positioned.

It was a bear just to find a picture of what I needed (part and placement), but then remembered there's a site that posts up hundreds of HMMWV photos and went there. Surprisingly, still not a lot of coverage of the area but I found these. Most of the trucks in the auction pictures are missing theirs also.

I need that piece of insulated ducting.
HMMWV DUCT 1.jpgHMMWV DUCT 6.jpg
 

Action

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Location
East Tennessee
I have some ductwork missing on mine- the HAVC duct that connects the left to the right. I can't help but think the system would be more efficient if they were connected. Problem is, I'm not replacing something that's already there, I'm trying to fill in a gap - I don't know what part and how it's positioned.

It was a bear just to find a picture of what I needed (part and placement), but then remembered there's a site that posts up hundreds of HMMWV photos and went there. Surprisingly, still not a lot of coverage of the area but I found these. Most of the trucks in the auction pictures are missing theirs also.

I need that piece of insulated ducting.
View attachment 869942View attachment 869943
Find TM 9-2320-387-24P.
search for 6015668. That duct is on the same page.

Or In the a/c section around figure 287a
 

Mainsail

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Puget Sound, WA
Find TM 9-2320-387-24P.
search for 6015668. That duct is on the same page.

Or In the a/c section around figure 287a
I think it's #38 in Figure 232, but that doesn't get one on the truck where I need it. :oops:

How do I find one in the real world?
 

Action

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East Tennessee
I think it's #38 in Figure 232, but that doesn't get one on the truck where I need it. :oops:

How do I find one in the real world?
No, that part you listed is NOT insulated and is only a few dollars. It will connect the 2 ducts, though. I gave you the correct figure number to look at.....Mac Motors appears to be the cheapest price and in stock. HPG is $26 more expensive (about 42%).
 

SmartDrug

Well-known member
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63
Location
Saint Charles, IL
If you’re not sticking to OEM parts, I rehabbed my HVAC setup in that spot on my M1123 (A2) with the original insulation, some HVAC grade foil duct tape and this-

POWERTEC 70241 Heavy Duty 2-1/2-Inch x 10-Foot Flexible PVC Dust Collection Hose with 2 Key Hose Clamps, Clear Color https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DQCFDJD/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_QZPVND7Z28PMAPZAKFZE?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

it’s a 2.5” duct under the hood, and 2” coming off the heater core, IIRC. That tubing, with the insulation, has held up fine for 6 months of regular use.
 

Maxjeep1

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Las Vegas Nevada
If you’re not sticking to OEM parts, I rehabbed my HVAC setup in that spot on my M1123 (A2) with the original insulation, some HVAC grade foil duct tape and this-

POWERTEC 70241 Heavy Duty 2-1/2-Inch x 10-Foot Flexible PVC Dust Collection Hose with 2 Key Hose Clamps, Clear Color https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DQCFDJD/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_QZPVND7Z28PMAPZAKFZE?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

it’s a 2.5” duct under the hood, and 2” coming off the heater core, IIRC. That tubing, with the insulation, has held up fine for 6 months of regular use.
Link doesn’t work
 

Mainsail

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
Puget Sound, WA
No, that part you listed is NOT insulated and is only a few dollars. It will connect the 2 ducts, though. I gave you the correct figure number to look at.....Mac Motors appears to be the cheapest price and in stock. HPG is $26 more expensive (about 42%).
Thank you!

The .pdf is a major pain in the butt on this machine and will not scroll properly.
 

rcamacho

Well-known member
764
812
93
Location
Bainbridge Island Wa
Replaced missing CDR valve from demil. Correct fording style. I have not yet tackled the fording switch / cup and hoses…
Mounting bolts added post photo. Love the 24P TM, easy to find every bolt spec.

Started replacement of power steering pump. Pully removal is a PITA so far. Not sure how to get it off without damage. Perhaps a pulley press..

Diagnosed bad water pump, leaking from seal/weep hole.

Diagnosed worn pitman arm (Sheppard style). Steering gear may need a slight adjustment as well.

The list goes on...





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Last edited:

Mogman

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Location
Papalote, TX
Replaced missing CDR valve from demil. Correct fording style. I have not yet tackled the fording switch / cup and hoses…
Mounting bolts added post photo. Love the 24P TM, easy to find every bolt spec.

Started replacement of power steering pump. Pully removal is a PITA so far. Not sure how to get it off without damage. Perhaps a pulley press..

Diagnosed bad water pump, leaking from seal/weep hole.

Diagnosed worn pitman arm (Sheppard style). Steering gear may need a slight adjustment as well.

The list goes on...





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If it is the remote reservoir type it should just slide off, the earlier type P pump requires a special puller.
 

rcamacho

Well-known member
764
812
93
Location
Bainbridge Island Wa
If it is the remote reservoir type it should just slide off, the earlier type P pump requires a special puller.
This is the remote style pump for the ECV. Yeah it should slide off hence my frustration. I’ll give it another go with a press / heat or other motivation after the torrential rain stops.


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Retiredwarhorses

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Brentwood, Calif
If it is the remote reservoir type it should just slide off, the earlier type P pump requires a special puller.
they don’t just “slide off” unfortunately, a puller is required , just not as bad as the rcsk18330 pump that is pressed on, this one uses a keyed shaft with woodruff….hit it with heat.
 
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