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Wheel Studs "Singling it Out"

1943ht

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Batavia, OH 45103
ALCON: I have been thru the 5 Ton “Singling out” threads and thru the parts spreadsheet in the 5 Ton Forum, but cannot find a part numbers (L&R) or a source for the longer wheel studs used on the 5 Ton front axles with the HEMTT wheel application aua. Don’t want to grind down bud-nuts, want to replace the studs instead. Found info on the longer bud-nuts in one thread to include a part number and source, but nothing on wheel studs. Can anyone provide some info?

//R//
Mark
 

jcappeljr

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You should be able to take your old studs to any big truck parts supplier and get longer ones.I used budd caps on the front of my trucks in the past.
 

73m819

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You should be able to take your old studs to any big truck parts supplier and get longer ones.I used budd caps on the front of my trucks in the past.[/QUOTE]

If these are NOT moded, there is a chance that FIRST- the stud/s will crack/break, SECOND the bud nut/s will fail (can happen moded or not without lug nut use), THIRD- The rim will develop cracks. A FAILURE EVENT (loose the front wheel) CAN happen with any one of the above THREE, besides the britches replacement factor, the damage/injury to the civi world because of this kind of event is NOT GOOD for the MV world.
 
Last edited:

gimpyrobb

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You should be able to take your old studs to any big truck parts supplier and get longer ones.I used budd caps on the front of my trucks in the past.[/QUOTE]

If these are NOT moded, there is a chance that FIRST- the stud/s will crack/break, SECOND the bud nut/s will fail (can happen moded or not without lug nut use), THIRD- The rim will develop cracks. A FAILURE EVENT (loose the front wheel) CAN happen with any one of the above THREE, besides the britches replacement factor, the damage/injury to the civi world because of this kind of event is NOT GOOD for the MV world.

I had 3 studs break on my deuce when I used the thimbles to space out the driver's side front rim. It WILL happen.
 

1943ht

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Batavia, OH 45103
Pulling my 35 Foot lowboy which will be loaded at times with a variety of vehicles .. the largest being my 10 Ton 43 Half-track .. Just don't want to take the chance on the modified bud-nut technique (Risk Mitigation) for my front axle ... Figured that someone else has replaced their studs and I could get a jump on having mine on hand before tearing my front end apart .. If nothing else will take the advise of a couple of folks, pull a stud and see if I can track down a longer replacement.

I installed a turbo in the M818 before I stored it for the winter .. So I've got a leg-up on the power thing .. to include a different transfer case for a little added speed.. whole project is about wow-appeal when I'm hauling my goodies to shows and events ..have always loved the look of that tractor :drool: and more so with the super singles!

Getting ready for a Touch-A-Truck event in June and would like to have the beast ready with the single-out modification for the event.:beer:
 

73m819

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Insted of changing the xcase, I would swap in a 8 or 10 speed trans, it will make driving the truck like night and day, If you do not care about fwd and a front winch find a 8 or 10 sprrd fuller, If you want fwd or a front winch, then find a OLD 8 or 10 speed spicer, this is a narrow trans with a side pto port, looks like the OE that is in there now. I can not find my hard copy info (collected before I became a computer wise) on the spicer, I was going to do the install on me 52 m52
 

cx65083

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Insted of changing the xcase, I would swap in a 8 or 10 speed trans, it will make driving the truck like night and day, If you do not care about fwd and a front winch find a 8 or 10 sprrd fuller, If you want fwd or a front winch, then find a OLD 8 or 10 speed spicer, this is a narrow trans with a side pto port, looks like the OE that is in there now. I can not find my hard copy info (collected before I became a computer wise) on the spicer, I was going to do the install on me 52 m52

73m819: If you could find it in your heart to dig around and find this info... I will forever be in your debt! I wanted to keep my truck stock as possible...until I had to drive it in the hills and in traffic! ugh...need more gears!
 

73m819

Rock = older than dirt , GA. MAFIA , Dirty
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73m819: If you could find it in your heart to dig around and find this info... I will forever be in your debt! I wanted to keep my truck stock as possible...until I had to drive it in the hills and in traffic! ugh...need more gears!
I have looked and looked for the folder, it had all kinds of bit of info connected to my 52 gasser m52, stuff so I don't have to look in the tms, tuning, parts, other numbers, info on trans, filters, electrical, mods, ect. The only place I have not looked is the map box IN the m52 which I do not have anymore :-( It stands to reason that it is there because that is where it lived as I am very lazy in going to look if I need something, now this WAS no big deal keeping the m52 folder in the m52, as it WAS the PLAN that once the move CA. to GA. (thank you X) was done and a bit of time, the m52 AND my open cab m20 12t Diamond T WAS to come east, unfortunately that could not happen :-(, I can not find my m20 folder either, so whereever that is, I would guess is the m52 folder and as I said the map box is a good bet.
 

1943ht

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Batavia, OH 45103
Here is a reply that I just received ....Am going to call tomorrow, 3 May and check it out.

COL Koloc, sorry for the delay in responding but I have been out of the office. We
have a wheel stud in stock that is 1/2" longer than the original. These
studs are $8.80 each plus shipping. We accept all major credit cards. I can
be reached at 901/774-0600 ext. 111. Regards, John Browning

The specs on the 7409554/7409555 wheel stud according to the gov. fed log is
Thread length 1.191 - 1.221
Fastener length 2.810 - 2.841
Head diameter 1.310 - 1.370
Head height .310 - .341
Shoulder diameter .974 - .975
Shoulder length 1.160 - 1.220
Rib major diameter .998 - 1.008
 

poorman4x4

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Lafayette, Louisiana
I ran 5 ton rockwells on my mud jeep and used NAPA part # WA1210 there pretty long and the knurl and thread match just fine, i had 70 inch r-2 tractor tires and never broke a stud, the right hand nuts are 610-2006 and left 610-2007, im not sure but try 611 if 610 dont work those numbers depect studs or nuts, but im sure about 2006 and 2007
 

poorman4x4

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Lafayette, Louisiana
Oh yeah forgot to mention the numbers were replacement numbers by napa in the last few months. Napa online isn't much help, I know the napa owner personally in my town so I guarantee these numbers are good so don't hesitate to have them punched in at the store the hub in new Orleans always has both stud and nut in large stock:beer:
 

2buells

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Pacific, MO
Pop out an old stud and take it to a truck shop (Kenworth, International or similar) as mentioned above this is the most correct and cheapest way of doing it. Last week I purchased everything needed for right at $140... New studs for the front and all new lug nuts for the rear axles. Less than $4 per stud and less than $1.50 per nut
 

1943ht

Active member
478
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Location
Batavia, OH 45103
[I'm confused. I singled my truck and the wheels (fmtv) just bolted right on? ]

HEMTT wheel application, front Axle .. not utilizing ground down / machined Bud-Nuts :popcorn:
 

dmetalmiki

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London England
We have a deuce owner panicking over here, A/ because he doesn't know what BUD NUTS are, B/ he has USED the INNER WHEEL holding wheel nuts to bolt on SINGLE wheels . C/ Having simply REMOVED the OUTER WHEEL bolting that on with the orriginal inner long nuts.
Thread answers seem to indicate this a DANGEROUSE? practice.
As the inner studs hold two wheels normally why would holding ONE (THE INNER ONLY) cause CRACKING OR HUB FAILURE.?
Being an obviouse safety concern quallifying answers greatly appreciated.
 
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