Yea i dont remove the arm either when doing ball joints. I think it might depend on what ball joint press you have. I use a old Kent Moore that was my granddads and it works fine with the arm on the knuckle.
Those steering arms are never fun. I use about a 8 lb sledge hammer and hammer down and up on the far end. Liberal applications of Kroil or PB Blaster. Repeat.
Once you see one start to loosen, i get a punch in the crack of the cone and try to turn it.
I saw one mechanic weld nuts to the studs...
The Hydro type shocks are the cheapie in the shock world. I always go with the gas (nitro) shocks.
Like cucvmule said check sway bar bushings, and tire pressure. Some tires have thin sidewall plies and do not corner well.
Worn spring and shackle bushings can make it feel loose also.
I am so sorry to hear about Dudley! This was news to me and i feel terrible that i didn't get to see him one last time. I would have been there guaranteed! The first time i met Duds and his sons, Matt and Shaun, was at Davids funeral. He invited me in his home like he knew me for years. That is...
The thread isn't tapered, the ID of the sleeve and the OD of the ball joint stud is.
If there is thread left, I would try and chase it with a tap. If not, looks like its time for a axle swap.
And I agree, the TM's are very useful, and for this job a civi repair manual would even work.
I saw one very similar to this at the 'Battle of the Bulge' reenactment at Fort Indian Town Gap. It was German and they have used it the past couple years I have been there. One of the young German soldiers was complaining about having to clean it.
Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!