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Going to an '80 by itself is too many steps up. You could use the 80 in a compound setup, along with the stock HX40. Even still, an HX60 would pair better with the 40.

That is a good upgrade. It just seems a tad too much. The stock compressor inlet is 60mm, and this one is 67. That's quite a lot. I was thinking in the 62mm range. You may find that you need marine injectors with that upgrade.....now that would be a shame to be forced in to the 400hp range...

Do a few more turns on that screw. Some pumps need like 10 turns to make a difference in power. On a big engine, 30hp is also around 75 pounds more torque. You will feel that much diference. Jumping up by 100hp is a whole other can of money worms....but still possible. I would think the...

Thanks Clarke. I just try to show everyone that it's not such a scary thing to do the adjustments. Still waiting on someone to make a how-to video on the rear fuel rate adjustment. Any takers?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HlWbNdLOE_A This is one I made a few years ago. Pretty basic and easy adjustment. Nothing to worry about.

Not that I know of. It's in really good shape too. Last I heard from them was not long after I was there taking those 2 pix.

I'm thinking it's not getting full throttle, added to the modulator not being adjusted, or possibly what's keeping it from getting max throttle(like was mentioned already). 600 more rpm would bring it to life.

The nut is the slotted part in the middle. Clockwise tightens them, and they only go in quarter turn increments.

Sounds to me like the gov springs are too tight. If that idle spring(biggest one of the gov spring set) is too tight, it cant recover in time to keep it from stalling. It also makes it take some extra cranking to start, unless you push on the pedal a little. Back it off 1 click, and it should be...

You can, but the idle comes up with it and makes it a little harder to start. Plus, the pedal gets pretty sensitive.

2700, you got a ways to go. For getting up to speed, 3200. For sustained, 2800.

One secret is to smack it from the top with a hammer. I actually dont even bother with the star wheel. You can more than make up for it with the forward screw. If you back out the screw more, it should come out of the hole, and spool up pretty quick.

The fuel screw on top is for low rpm/excess fuel for a starting aid. Once it gets to a certain rpm, it goes back to factory fuel rate. The real fuel adjustment is covered on page 6. It's a pdf file you can download and print. Do those nuts and it will be happy.

That's a fuel plate for a P - pumped 8.3, which most 900 series are an MW-pump.

Or send me a PM. I can walk you thru most of the hop up stuff.

Yes. and yes. Plus, the 4k spring will only get it to about 3400. It is just the same way the 12valve is done.

Back a few years ago(when a 12 valve with 370s was cool), I did lots of reading on people's driving experiences with different brands of GSK. Most favored the set from Piers, but the best manners are from the Pac Brake kit. That, and KT has them for the best price. I have been thinking of...

http://ktperformance.net/i-6684434-pacbrake-governor-springs-dodge-1994-98-5-9l-cummins-12v-3000-4000rpm.html

The MW pumps alone cant make that kind of power without serious $$,$$$. They can only be had with 10mm plungers, and Bosch doesnt have listings for anything bigger(not that I found anyway). The 10mm plungers dont make very big power. Adding marine injectors will gain a little bit on a stock pump...

Dropping the idle is only one more adjustment.