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One note on the full fuel nuts; It wasn't mentioned yet, but both nuts will need to be backed out, once you break them loose. They are on a stud, and are basically jammed together to make the rack stop, and limiting the fuel. I'm 99.8% sure that if you back them all the way to the last threads...
Yes, that's about right.
I remember seeing the nuts up inside the AFC. Thought of trying to make my own tool also. Yes, what does your home brew tool look like? I may just buy the real one, and rent it out.
Before the turbo, 1350* sustained, or 1300 for conservative side. Upping just the fuel on these pumps should NOT make it run that high, unless there's a problem(air restriction).
He was telling you safe and cautious, at 30 pounds. It can take 30 pounds at 100% duty cycle. I would put the actual...
I'm not offended a bit. Glad you found what you did. The stuff I wrote about was stuff I discovered on my own. Seems like there are so few places to get info on an MW. It's a great description of what the top screw does.
Not sure I agree with the guy saying to keep it under 30 pounds.
I forgot to add the other easy adjustment. This gives a little more travel for the rack overall, and hopefully less smoke. Just pull the tin cover off from the 2 bolts, and back out the screw in the middle(all the way CCW) with a 3mm allen wrench.
It's not mine. The guys doing the truck are members here, but dont have the time to post the build. I saw the photo album, and there are a bunch of build pix. Takes money to spend money on a truck like this. There will be a build thread on it, I was assured. Should go over 35mph up the Grapevine...
Installed 3k GSK, timing advanced a few degrees, throttle stop adjusted, fuel screw on top adjusted. First video shows the strangeness of the MW-pump. After adjusting the fuel screw on top, it will go into a heavy fueling mode(35 pounds of boost here and lots of power), until it hits around...
I'm going to be doing one this weekend, and putting in gov springs too. I'll try to get pix and video of results. Yes, also an MW pump. He wants his 5T to go over the Grapevine at better than 35mph.
You guys know you can subscribe to a thread without making a post that says 'subscribed', right...
I have a parts list, yes. I dont want to post a price here(it is less than $3k), because that may change with supplier stock.
First thing to do is slide the fuel plate, and see how you like it.
Here's a vid of a guy with a 6CT, marine injectors, #0 plate, and HX50 turbo. It is a little...
The Dodge gov springs will work, but have a little lower rpm than the dodge. Get a set that has the 3k and 4k springs, so you can dial in the rpm you want.
Marine injectors, #0 plate, HX52 turbo, gov springs, and you got 500+hp. That will surely do some burnouts.
Good news/bad news:
Good; Dodge 12 valve gov springs will work in the MW and P pumps. Someone needs to try a set to see what the top rpm is. The weights in the 8.3 are heavier than in the 5.9, so it wont go to 3100 like in a Dodge. I just dont know the exact rpm it will cut off.
Look for the...
Cranking down on the retainer tightens all the springs, which makes a touchy idle, and sometimes makes it smoke real heavy at low rpm. It also can make it take longer to start(more cranking). Shimming just the upper rpm gives the nice idle and more smooth operation. He didnt say how thick of...
Ok.... Here's what it comes to.
There isnt a specific spring combo to use. On the brighter side, you CAN use a Cummins 12 valve gov spring kit. The weights on these pumps are heavier, so it wont rev up to 3100 like on a Dodge. I cant give a specific rpm that it will go to, unless one of you...
Still working with my injection guy on the replacement springs. He only works on it in his spare time, so I have to be patient. I told him to find 2800 - 3000 range.