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You would be better off to try and glue it back.... as the instrument cluster for these trucks will be hard pressed to find... as you will have to swap out the entire cluster, you will have to reuse the ribbon cable on back of cluster to ensure the GEN lights will continue to work, etc....
Well, my 09 has been heavliy modified in the 3 years, i have had it, I do believe in keeping with the original theme "per say" as it was built and intended for, and basically have added, modifed, made certain upgrades, That i personally feel they shouldve been there from the begining in 1984...
i have the late model ( 96-99 ) tahoe front seats and console in my 09.. Can view pics here to get idea of how "they" look installed... Even the power is hooked up on driver side...
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/cucv/83044-85-m1009-build-thread-7.html
Btw.... Im in the mists of gathering...
did just a quick search here and found this....
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/cucv/80751-main-bearing-web-cracks-girdles.html
This will not answer your question completely, but will give you an idea of what this upgrade will\may possibly do for you....
I plan on doing this, as i feel its...
Cool.... and Welcome to SS... Sounds like a good plan, Im doing the same thing, just abit further along though...
My advise, would be while you have the oil pan off replacing gasket and main Seal, is to go ahead and install a stud girdle kit... runs around $120-150 it will help "keep"...
Heres some pic from over the weekend, shows some of the locals... and results of me... not paying attention.. and sticking front diff on a rock... and finding out, cant power out of it in reverse " especially with a welded rear yoke" which was done the day before this haapened and "hey...
I believe it is, I did some checking prior to ordering my set, and its was cheaper and plain easier to just order them from TWF, than to try and buy and make your own...
Just standard 1350 u joints.. the difference will be with the yoke. either one that takes the Straps ( factory style for a 14b ) or a yoke that will accept the U bolt. The research that i have done shows the U bolt style yoke to be stronger
Went trail riding and camping over the weekend.. Had a Blast until i broke a ujoint and Yoke on my rear axle. Was able to weld it.. yes weld it... and it held the rest of the weekend... we took it kinda easy, and avoided some of the extreme trails... researching now to see if i should go...
check out my build..
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/cucv/83044-85-m1009-build-thread-7.html
I just rattle canned mine this past weekend... Im no painter, and its not perfect... but it looks better than before.. and that will buy me time until i can get to a point and do some extensive body...
Here's some more pictures, after some paint touch ups... Went and painted the insert on H1 wheels too..... Took some more pics of my gauges, ( still have 2 more to install once i get to installing turbo...) Pic of my spare Driveshaft mounted, and the relocation of smaller air tank...
Good Find!..........How does the floors look in it? i could use section beside seat and door on each side...
previous owner who had mine, patched it with galvanized panels, and now the channel is missing for weatherstriping... ugh.. would have prefered the holes....
Also I'm looking for the...
Check out my gage setup on my build thread.. Went with Autometer... i kept the original volt meter, as i was told it was specific to the CUCV's, i picked a NIB volt meter from a H1, but it will not work...
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/cucv/83044-85-m1009-build-thread.html
well.. this weekend.. I went crazy with a ton of krylon camo paint.. its not perfect, but i did follow military specs on camouflage patterns.. Pic to follow...
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