Search results

if your going to run anything bigger than 37" with that much lift... i would do both.. I did.. i have a M1009 with M1008 axles 4" ORD lift.. and 52" running recentered H1 on 37" bfg military take offs...ORD High/Crossover.. but i went with Redneck ram from West texas offroad, due to price...

CAMO...:mrgreen:

If a budget is the biggest concern... as ODdave stated, you may have to have one built anyways, the cheapest path would be to go to junkyard and find another front slip double cardan driveshaft from a civi K5 or k20 truck, ( $20-50 ) and have it stretched or shortened based on your...

Ugh... 62" is still too long... Im needing them around 54-56 1/2" range as i have trimed fenders.. and my axles have been repositoned a bit from factory.. ( will have to play with a 2x4 to get an exact measurement needed for length..) that is why i was requesting them to not have arms...

SWEET... i like how the tube blends into the slider... Do you have an estimate on cost and Shipping to 37066 yet? i'd like as set.. but just the sliders and mounting arms seperate..... Whats the length in inches of these sliders.... i have other mods in place on my M1009... that you arent...

Patracy.. I've had almost all the parts laying around for my setup, going on 2 years... just havent found the need yet... ( with a 203/doubler... lack of power trailing riding, hasnt been a big problem yet... ) But.. Now after listening to yours in your video... i'm starting to rethink...

Well Spent the weekend... tinkering around in the shop... got alot done considering... i was stuck waiting on my hyrdo ram to be modified... While waiting, and since the driver inner fender was out, i sanded it down... re eitched primed it.. and painted.. ( the bottom Satin Black...

Install went fine... however still had same problem.. little to no brakes.. changed master cylinder... same problem... had found a small small tech note somewhere, either here, or another offroad forum.. all that the problem was, the rear brakes were way out of Adjustment... to the point...

allenhillview I have an extra Booster and Steering Stablizer , both are used but in good working shape.. Were pulled off mine within the past 2 months... PM me if your interested....

go to trailfabworthy.com as they have the Orings, Valve stems, etc for your wheels. Doghead is correct, ensure you know exactly what type of H1's you have... As not all are the same or compatible... i believe you can can just simple grease, the same as you would use to pack wheel...

Well.. after much planning and research, and $ in parts so far. It was time to replace the 4th Broken Steering gear box.. upon removal, had found frame was cracked.. ( Lower Left bolt hole.) Ordered and installed ORD Frame repair/upgrade kit. Once wleded, primed and painted. began...

i would have left it... and either try to install an extra set of black out drive lights in it or a fog light... than again... thats just me... and im twisted....:mrgreen:

Wide Strips of 3M two sided tape, and cover the entire back of glass, should hold nicely... you can get this at the local part house, Wally world, etc...

Read thread.... bought and installed next day....:driver:

okay.. heres a few pics.. of recent mods.... mounted new oil Pressure gauge and Tach, (waiting to Dakota Digital module to arrive to complete tach install.. Tried connecting directly to the D or C pin in the STE ( for testing ) does not do anything...) completed installation of temp probes...

Heck yeah... But as Cucvnut stated.. you definitely need bigger tires and lockers for that type of off roading :grd:

Im not sure... i'm running recentered H1's with 37" take offs, 4' lift with fenders trimed. And i still rub a little when front is articulated. i would go with the 2" to start... if they arent what you like, Sell em' to get the 2.5"

honestly... i dont believe there wouldnt be a difference, as its only .5" and the normal backspacing on a recentered H1 is.. i think 3.5" im not 100% sure.. So the question would really just pertain to your preference on which spacer in how you want wheel to sit inside wheel well.......

Just a shot in the dark.... i would check your vent tube valve... on transfercase. it could possibly be clogged... I am no Dr... or mech... i just hit things with hammers until something happens.... usually bad...... bad things happen went struck with hammers......

She..... Talks entirely too much....rofl