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Grab it and shake it up and down and side to side. If there is no play, remove it and flex the u joints by hand. If they are bad, you should have play in the joint or spots that are not smooth when rotated. As old as these are, you may just replace them while it is apart. The grease in them...

I believe all the wires labeled 139 in the diagrams come from the same source in the fuse box, but I'm not 100% sure that's how it works. They seem to have either a junction or splice somewhere, because there are multiple 139 wires in the other diagrams spliced into each other.

Check the 20A engine control fuse and 20A ignition fuse.

As long as they are the correct knurled bolts, just use them and torque them down correctly. It is wildly uncommon that they are replaced for anything other than breaking off in the block. They are not torque to yield bolts.

Ok, test your ignition switch. This is probably not the best way, but I don't know the best way either. I would disconnect where the red circles are, trying to keep the starter from taking off again. Put your meter at either the yellow wire off of the switch, or the ppl/wht wire at the...

It may well be, it might not be. The only way to know is to get it running and listen to it or maybe do a compression test.

That is the ground for the whole dash. If it's not good, you can get all sorts of issues. There is only the one wire originally.

You could, but if you are going to do that, at least get a double pole, single throw switch so you can also wire the wait light into your circuit and have it come on when your glow plugs do. New glow plug cards are available if you want to fix it.

This is how our trucks came

If something breaks on it, they are going to weasel out of covering it anyway, it sounds like. Neither that plate, or that bar is on my truck. Who supplied that diagram?

https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/tms-for-the-cucv.77609/ Those are the TM, wiring diagrams are in the 289-34. parts numbers are in the ones with suffix of "p" Pink is the 12v supply wire from the glow plug card to the relay. The glow card grounds the blue wire when it is supposed to be...

It looks like something custom due to the blue end that they use on the color coded crimp connectors. If it were mine I would discard it. If there were a wiring issue where something didn't work because of a missing ground, I'd repair that as it is discovered.

https://www.amazon.com/1970-1982-Corvette-Fuel-Line-Flex/dp/B0028CMMKO Amazon seems forever unavailable for that particular piece, but its available other places for around twenty bucks or so. I ended up using this for a 70-82 corvette application on the s bend for the truck fuel pump. Its been...

You really should just replace the driven gear on that. It looks to me like your drive gear inside the case is good though. Count the teeth on it and a new one should be the same. If you have the top and bottom loose of the speedometer cable, you can remove it, lube the cable, run oil through...

Ive got one mounted behind the front bumper on mine and the solenoid box mounted to the driver side fender near the radiator overflow tank. I just needed to source some more heavy wire and wrapped all the wire that I was worried about with some sheathing for abrasion protection. It really was...

I would wager that you'll have the same problem as I did when i went through the brake system on mine. Mine started leaking through the rear seals of the master cylinder when I replaced the rubber lines, flushed and bled the brake system. A reman master cylinder is only about 30 bucks from...

I have a set of 9.0x16 tires on a second set of rims for off road purposes. They measure about 35 inches tall and 9 inches wide on (i think)7 inch wide rims. I had to trim the bottom corners of the front fender in the front and rear.

I'm using the plastic tank radiator, never had any trouble. Just replace the mounting bushings when you have it out, and a new radiator cap. Thats your easiest chance to do it. There are several 'while you're in there' things you could do, front main seal, harmonic balancer, clean up rust on...

I would start checking the wiring between the glow plug controller and the relay first. Make sure you have continuity between the controller and the relay on the light blue, and pink/blk wires. Those two wires complete the circuit and trigger the relay to close. Pink/blk should be the 12v...

Just be sure that they are the same alternators the truck came with, so that the kits will work.