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Got engine up to temp and full throttle - no leak

TM 9-2520-246-34-1 Page 289 axial play IF READING IN STEP 4 IS 0.003 TO 0.00-INCH, END OF TASK Add shims to increase play

Picture of the Plunger Bore Screw I can give you a picture of the screw but I will not recreate the leak. Evidently removing the screw and re-installing it stopped the leak. It wasn't very tight (but wouldn't call it lose) when I removed it, so maybe cleaning it and re-tightening it was all...

Our '67 Kaiser M35A2 with the Hercules runs good but is leaking fuel at the center screw between the injector lines on top of the hydraulic head. I see they call it a Plunger Bore Screw. I pulled the screw and did not see any seal. Is there supposed to be a seal here? I looked at several TM's...

Good pics. We came through Redding Sunday and thought about stopping, but we were on our last day after 2 weeks and 1600 miles with an RV. This Saturday is the Cameron AirPark Show and Shine and we'll be taking the 5 ton and a deuce.

Gringeltaube has a good idea to pull the bearing cover and inspect, however you didn't mention how much play you have. I think you're better off removing it from the truck, much easier to inspect & repair on an engine stand. The bearings on the input shaft for hi/lo are usually the ones to go...

Should be no play in the output shaft. http://www.steelsoldiers.com/asset.php?fid=412664&uid=21590&d=1365087232

What size coconut? Yes, this noise has always concerned me. Had several deuces, GM diesels, worked on boats with diesels, just got a Cummins 6.7 - but the 250 has been different and thought maybe some things were going to let go holding hands any minute.

I've had two intermittent electrical problems on the 1967 deuce that sound similar to yours. One was a wiring harness connector on the firewall near the steering column - had a loose crimp on one wire. Our later deuces didn't have these connectors. The other was a loose connector on the master...

I found Motion Ind prices somewhat high, also I replaced a couple bearings that could have been left alone. I guess it depends on how much you're going to use the truck. Check EBay as some of the ads are for large suppliers.

We're paying $750 per year just liability with State Farm on a commercial policy, but don't have a garage to try and get a better rate. Seems like all the insurance companies that will insure as classic or historic need you to store in a lockable garage.

DMV will want it weighed, CHP to inspect VIN and bill of sale. Our Vin was unreadable on frame, so CHP used dash number. Also have your SF-97 stating the year of mfg before CHP inspection (they have no clue and will assign a year based on best guess). You need at least a class B to drive a 5 ton...

Maxtor, What year is your truck and what insurance company are you with? Thanks

I tried repairing mine, didn't work well. I purchased a new exact replacement from Eric's. Not cheap, but the right part and it's done.

Home depot colors from a previous post. I've not tested them.

Mine was stamped by a 10 year old girl. It's in that location, but unusable. CHP used the dash plate.

Should have been more specific. The exemption is from the new engine and BIT program.

One exemption is for vehicles registered Historical Vehicle. Look up "Class A in a Day" truck driving school for a CDL. It was about $ 500 and the peace of mind is worth it.

My 5 ton is registered Historical, but I had to get a commercial insurance policy because of the weight. It runs approx. $ 850 a year from State Farm. So I have a non commercial truck that I can't use to haul anything (even privately), but as the avatar states - "A thing of beauty is a joy forever".

My advice to you is to start drinking heavily.