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I'd start with the fuel filter.
I'm sure its been awhile since its been done on that truck.
I'm a fan of installing a spin on fuel filter with the hand primer like I showed you on my M1028.
Another thing that comes to mind is the filter/sock on the sending unit in the fuel tank.
I've had good luck cutting the bolt off with a sawzall. I put the blade between the eye of the spring and the spring mount on the truck frame and cut away.
On rusty New England trucks even if you get the nut off, the bolt is usually rusted to the metal bushing sleeve.
Good luck
Welcome from Mass. I just seen this post today. I'm glad you got the truck back on the road and are driving it. Your getting some good mpg's out of it.
You seem like you dive into your projects head first and get them done quickly. I look forward to watching the progress of my old truck.
I'd bet you could buy a nice CUCV for what it will cost to fix the 2015 Sierra.
It sounds like a few rebuilt driveshafts and the fleet of CUCV'S will be back up & running.
Got to love the tuff old trucks.
It's not that I need the K20 to be 24 volts, I'm thinking it would just make for a cleaner install using factory wiring.
If I keep the k20 harness I will have to splice in wiring for the temp sensor, oil pressure, fast idle & fuel shut off.
Maybe I should start looking for a 6.2 12 volt...
I bought my first CUCV back in 2009, right around the same time I blew up the motor in my Civy k20.
I have owned 17 CUCV's since then, while the k20 has sat inside untouched (with a blown motor).
I currently own 8 CUCV's (a clean M1028 and M1009) the rest are typical rusty New England parts...
I had the same problem with my 84 M1028.
I tore my column apart and I quickly realized I was in over my head. My truck was an early 84 and didn't have the set screw for the ignition lock which added to my problems.
I then did a search on S.S. and found some old post covering this topic...
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