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Wheelspinner nailed it. A cheap beater is a great way to go. If you have to drive the CUCV in the winter, spray the undercarige down with oil.

Check out some of the threads by Cucvrus. He has saved some rotted out trucks including one that he dragged out of the junkyard. Does the frame & floors have any rot holes or is it just surface rust?

Is this project going to snowball like the mule?

That's what I'm thinking. At around $40, its a good place to start after putting the alignment back to where it was. Some guys have removed the spring cap and stack a few washers on top of the saggy springs, but for $40, I'd replace them.

I know its frustrating, but you will get it resolved. The good news is that there is only a limited number of things it can be (alignment, tires, shocks, steering stabilizer, tie rod, drag link, springs & bushings, etc...). I think most CUCV's haven't been driven enough to wear out the king...

My experience with the Dana 60 is that even a slight amount of play in any component can bring on the death wobble. Like Chaski said, I'd start with the spring & bushing kit. I think I paid $38 for the kit at South Shore Bearing in Quincy Ma (they had it in stock). Even though you have a low...

Hopefully PA had good weather today and you got to paint the truck. Looking forward to seeing pics of the 8 hour paint job.

Did anyone have to battle with the studs on the exhaust manifolds?

What brand of paint are you going to use?

Its just frustrating when you set aside time for a project like replacing your exhaust and you can't finish the job in your driveway because the parts don't fit. Hopefully its a cheap fix at the muffler shop. How much was the LMC kit? What did you use for mufflers?

That's like saying Abe Lincoln enjoyed the play until the end. The bottom line is that you bought a product from one company and now you will be paying another company to make it fit your truck.

It doesn't sound like it fits good.

I'm looking forward to seeing how the 8 hour paint job turns out. If I wasn't 400 miles away, I'd go help paint the rims.

2 trucks built 30 years apart. I have to ask, if driving 5 miles into town to run errands, which one would you rather drive?

I was referring to the way GM built your CUCV with 1 key for the door & ignition. Don't forget that you will also need a lock plate removal tool to change the ignition lock.

Before you install your new ignition lock, you can have a locksmith rekey it to match your new door locks. Now the same key will match your doors & ignition, just like the way GM built it.

Here in Mass it seems like the asking price on CUCV's is cheaper than the asking prices on civy models. Maybe its a regional thing. These are the last 2 CUCV's I bought off Craigslist. I paid $4800 for the M1028 (was advertised for $5500) I paid $4000 for the M1009 (was advertised for $4000...

It's not boring to me. I look forward to seeing the progress that you & others make on your projects. My M1028 is a daily driver that so far has just required the normal maintenance to keep it going strong. Someday hopefully I'll take on a restoration project. Keep the updates coming.

The plug came right out for me tonight. At least I didn't ask how to change the spark plugs. Thanks guys.

Have you checked the rear axle to make sure it has 4:10 gears? Its coming along nicely. I'm sure the owner is looking forward to plowing with it next winter.