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As it sits now - new 2 door kit, reverse light added, differential oils changed, insured through State Farm at the moment as an AM General M1123 (all questions about insurance will only be answered through PMs), antenna bracket added at passenger side rear where holes already existed, glow plugs...

No thanks. Maybe it's the angle of the photo, but it also looks like it would need to be taken off to lower the tailgate to 90 degrees down.

I made a video when installing my 2nd one. I'll post it at some point when I get state side. It was a pain because it was 30 degrees out and the rubber was not very pliable to get the window and seal into the windshield frame. But yes... work very slowly and do not force it. I broke one by...

You are a pretty bad (good?) influence. S3 EESS kit ordered. Thank you for your guidance! :tinkerbell:

Thanks guys, I just ordered more plugs because I'd like to replace them anyway if I take them out to get everything on a good maintenance schedule. If that fixes it, I'll hold off and get an S3 EESS at a later date, possibly at the end of winter when glow plugs aren't needed every day. I'm...

I believe you. I just have no idea what I'm talking about so I didn't know if my truck already had the S3. :) I'll pull all the glow plugs when I get back from vacation. I'll likely go ahead and order new ones and look into a new EESS. Do you know what year the S3 was standardized?

The white smoke does go away. I will check the GP voltage on more than just the one. I did that troubleshooting on a lunch break so I was short on time. How long would you say the glow plugs should stay on? Being a 2005 truck, I think it's got a green label EESS already.

So my M1123 is having trouble starting when it's cold out. I checked the cold advance circuit and everything is working the way it should. Manually hitting the throttle after the wait light goes off is done regularly to engage the cold advance plunger since apparently the electrical system...

Do a google search for "soft door hmmwv striker" and one for "hard door hmmwv striker" to see the difference. Like I said, one is like a heavy duty coat hanger bent into a certain shape, and the other is a legit bar striker.

That was my biggest concern with the aluminum. Brazing seemed the least intrusive, but I still hated the idea of something "permanent" and had concerns about material differences. I thought rubber plugs would be best just to avoid any corrosion and just seal it up for use later. I'd...

^ that's a better way to handle it. Looks like McMaster has aluminum ultra-wide flange bolts that would work perfectly and resist any galvanic corrosion... I think I'll have to pull the trigger on those. Edited to add - ha. Nevermind, they are $6 EACH.

It still doesn't show all of the holes. There are holes literally everywhere. In the fender between the operator and passenger footwell behind the tires (the front tires will throw crap into the cabin), under the footwell, a few in the bed. My M1123 had 11 patches (not including the fuel pump...

Those brackets are likely from the armor as RetiredWarHorse stated. When I first took my truck off the trailer, I went over every square inch and picked off every nut, bolt, and washer I could find. Two of those brackets were hanging on a crossmember near the middle of the vehicle, I pulled...

I think I'm wrong here... I'm still certain mine say TP50. But... 50 is the maximum allowable pressure for the radial tires. The tables for cross country say the M998 should be 15 at the fronts and 20 at the rears at GVW. This means I learned TWO new things today... and that means my brain is...

I'm pretty sure mine are painted TP50 over every wheel. Yours may have been ready for desert sand missions or something and they kept the tires low for that kind of reason. It's hard to tell. But review the manuals and see what pressure you should run on the street. I thought it was 50 psi.

Fun fact, my 2005 M1123 with 81 miles has tires from mid-2009. So the USMC might have them on a 5 year rotation on tires. /shrugs

Date of manufacture of the tire will be near the rim inside an oval. If they are made after 2000, they will be a 4 digit code that is something like "1509", which translates to week 15 of 2009. 3 of mine are on the outside and easy to see (I checked them last night), I suspect the 4th is on...

Even wear across the whole tread pattern of the tire?

I'll have to keep that option in mind, Juan. I just ordered the OEM pump brand new for $39 off of eBay. As for the stray voltage, I'll have to check that again tomorrow when I have time.

I did. From memory, wire 71 had 24 volts with the button pushed. But it also had 10.5 volts with the button not pushed. But testing the switch itself it had continuity when pressed and none when not pressed. But it was late and I might be remembering it wrong. In any case, I'm currently...