Search results

What is your feeling on the cost of the kit vs the cost of a custom exhaust from a local shop?

Does anyone make a pre-fab replacement exhaust kit for an M1009?

If you buy a new cooler it should have everything you need except for a long enough piece of hose and what ever you need for the pressure gauge. - use brass I ran my in series for two reasons... 1. The trans fluid needs to be warm... not hot, just warm and on cold days a system with does not...

could have been two things.. bad thermostat or a small leak thus letting in air. I noticed that if the coolant is low the pressure will be low too.

I just finished up the rear main seal... Who ever said it was easy.... you are correct... it is just a PITA So I buttoned it all up, add new oil and filter and started it.... then I get this very loud BLUB-BLUB-BLUB sound. I shut it off and looked around. Couldn't see anything. I started it...

So I know you are all waiting to find out how I did it. There were several issues.. first was the fact that the original rope main seal was in perfec shape and was not leaking therefore it would not slip. Second, when I would hit the 1/4" solid copper it would eventually bend... So I got a...

Well, I found a piece of 1/4" solid copper ... didn't work. I guess I go back to picking it out one piece at a time.

now there is an idea... I'll let you know how that works

doubtful... I tried a piece of aluminum rod and that won't do it either.. currently I am picking small pieces at a time out. PITA

anyone? anyone? Bueller?

Could I use a piece of copper wire since copper is softer than steel?

So, it turns out that the rope rear main seal was intact and doing fine. My leak was the rear pan gasket. I was planning on the rear main seal so I am doing it anyway. I pulled one half of the rope out with ease. The other is stuck What are you guys using to push the rope out from the other...

What is that little valve on the left side between the radiator and the overflow tank?

Does anyone on the list have a transmission temp sensor and gauge? Searching on the net it looks like you either use the drain plug or pop a hole in the pan and braze in a threaded plug. I'd rather not pop a hole in my pan. Is there a better option?

OK, it has been a while, but I have since had the trans rebuilt and the shop said the tranny mount was fine. I am still getting the "bump" although it is lighter now. Everything in the truck is tied down and secure. It is definitely coming from under the truck. Any ideas what is going on?

Ouch... I went to my local smith and $1.75 later I had a key. BTW it is the B key

Maybe the TRANSMISSION GOVERNOR look at TM 34P page 181 to see what and where it is. Inside that is a rod that should slide back and forth... could be that. Dod you have a local transmission parts supply house? If that is it, those are $30-$40. The guy at my supply house said you could...

In the 7 years I have lived in KC I have never seen a diesel in the yards.

Is there a better vacuum pump to get? I see a range from $100 to $500 OR can I rebuild mine?

But the clutches only work when the locker is engaged right? So I'm ok till I get the additive in there as long as I don't cause it to engage...right? I'll get some tonight.