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Over the weekend I drove my 1008 clone over the highest mountain pass on I5 (4,310’). Took it over the pass to check out if I had fixed my puking gear oil out of the breather problem. Turns out the oil had water in it. Fresh oil and a breather hose up to the engine compartment fixed it.
Got...
I just use a bunch of dish soap solution in a spray bottle. Use a large pry bar (steel pipe, primo 2x4) to turn the insert perpendicular to the tire. Then use a nylon strap and an engine hoist to pull the insert out. Place the tire flat on the ground, then place the legs of your engine hoist...
FYI- Bridgestone uses the same video in a safety bulletin with more explanation.
https://youtu.be/jBUVzgCHHuA
Apparently the term for what is going on is pyrolysis...
I took a carbide scraper and cleaned off the hub face so there was not any crud or high spots. where the spacer bolts on. I think this is probably the most critical thing to do so you have a dead flat surface.
Slathered a boatload of copper anti-seize on and torqued it all up to whatever it...
Yep!
I went through a pump one time and had it do the same thing. Pulled it off, took it to an injection shop with some cash and they diagnosed it as a sticking metering valve. They did whatever magic they did and it has been good to go since.
Nope, never run into that.
I have a couple 12 bolt wheels sitting in the yard, just measured them from all 8 lug holes to the pilot hole. Both wheels were less that .013” (.3mm) runout difference between the pilot and the lugs. My 24 bolt spare was less than .006” (.15mm). Now you have me...
2” spacer is as small as you can go. You can go larger than that, but 2” will tuck the wheels in as far as possible.
The dually hubs are a strong option, but they space it out about 3”, so scrub radius is worse. If you want the most tire clearance possible up front keep your hubs and run 2”...
Cool!
Personally I have always had good luck with an engine hoist. Mine has the folding legs that are sort of in a vee. Just flop the tire / wheel assembly on the ground, go to the back of the engine hoist and tilt it back, roll it over the wheel and flop it down so the two legs are on the...
Might also run into oil pan clearance issues, or future clearance issues if crossover steering is ever in the agenda.
I'd just sell a kidney and have the driveshaft work done.
Here is how my axle swap went...
Rear...
Craigslist Open 14 bolt $175
New gears $250
New Detroit locker $500
Bearing kit $130
New u-bolt style yoke $90
New slave cylinders, shoes and hardware $160
New hub bearings and seals $130
Front...
Craigslist GM Dana 60 dually $800
New SRW hubs and rotors...
Summit Racing Part
Summit Racing ENS-3-1116G or SUM-7731116
I run the Summit house ones and like them. Rick had posted a bunch about the poly mount inserts and I finally put a pair in. Wish I would have done it a couple years ago.
I didn’t see a steering box brace in your photos, get one if you don’t have one allready (ORD). The stock steering is fore and aft strain on the frame, as soon as you go crossover it is side to side and will crack out your frame near the box in short order without one.
You can unbolt the...
Clamp on cylinder mount for your tie rod. New ARP studs and tapered nuts for your passenger side arm. Maybe new kingpin bushings / springs / bearings / seals? Hose management?
Beer?
Vodka?
Water?
Looking good! I like that fancy remote reservoir.
Know anyone with a milling machine?
You could drill and tap the one currently on your rig yourself.
One of the holes is easy with a drill press as it is a through hole.
The other hole is blind, into a cross passage that makes it an interrupted cut. On the blind hole I normally drill it 3/8”...