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A little heat with a rosebud and some weight outa get the kink out

Pull the conv. cover or starter and check the flywheel teeth - that will tell you what you have to do. Maybe not as bad as you think.

Sure cuts down on brake maintainance.aua I might think about keeping the drive shaft brake as a parking / emergency brake, but think using it as a service brake is nuts.

I have done it - ONCE- PITA! Like others have said - gotta be real carefull - while you are working on nipple, heat will get to other areas like tank seam or tube to tank bottom joints. Then maybe that blows or leaks. You have to redo the entire nipple seam, and to get it to flow right takes...

I agree - me - would have kept it around for all the good bits and pieces I could use on my next one. Engine, trans, transfer case, diffs ---

Gotta ask - how do you know that?

I see that they used lock-tite. Very Bad with anything Aluminum that may be dissasembled again. Galls aluminum. I have been using Permatex anti- sieze for last 5-6 years. Think it is a tad better. Aluminum is so soft, that if they do not hand start, doubt would feel bolt is cross threaded at...

Been thru the over tightened, busted studs scenario. Learned fast. When I buy tires, I have salesman list torque on sales slip - I have it posted on door jamb below tire size/GVWR tag on each of my vehicles. I have him write all nuts to be started by hand, either torque wrench or torque stick to...

Don't even try it with 2 different engines. Genheads have to be identical and locked together. As I said follow Sewerzuk's post 43 to align rotor and stator on single shaft. Each VR keeps it's genhead at 120.

Perhaps, the shop mechanic is not at fault?? In 1960's, GM made an all aluminum 215 Cu inch V8. When they were repaired, the threads were chased with taps, like on cast iron engines. On reassembly, the aluminum threads sometimes stripped out before correct torque was attained, or afterwards...

Sorry for your loss, hate to see a good truck trashed. As these vehicles age, things can deteriorate in concealed places, sometimes helped by furry critters. If a vehicle is going to be parked for a while, for a number of reasons, suggest pulling a cable off one terminal of every battery.

Since your genheads are single phase, if you can configure the genheads for proper voltage, might consider following proceedures in post 43, and connecting them in SERIES!! No circulating currents, no chance of overloading one head if other develops a problem.

BUT - Like it says, that method only gets you tight enough to get to nearest service station. It does not establish anything near correct torque. Before I did that, I would use the previously described method of standing on the bar. Know your weight, measure and mark the bar, and that should...

Looks great. :beer: Waiting for vid of you starting her up, and taking for a short drive.

:-D On target! Are you planning to go to zout's

Exactly! Lotta work and $$$ for parts and you still have a piece of (your favorite expression).

Sorry to say - when gears are pitted, i do not rebuild them. I think you need another one.

Thank you for posting the pix. Looking at pix #6, black sludge on crack shows piece was busted for a long time - perhaps cracked at last rebuild. If the crank cracked between that bearing and adjacent main, probably caused by lack of support.