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well with the relatively low cost and abundace of chevy front 60's out there, it makes no sense upgrading a 10bolt. especialy when a 60 will improve the value of the truck all together...
ditto on the steering set up, a steering box brace is almost mandatory..
my buddy runs a 10bolt out front with a detroit and 4.56 gears on 35" and I asked him why he doesn't just swap in a 60 "he said because he already dumped the $$ into the 10bolt"
so now whenever we go wheeling I usually have to add an hour for swapping a busted stub shaft or u-joint. It...
running 35" on 10 bolts with 3.07 gearing is not a good idea. a 14 bolt out of a 3/4 ton will bolt right on, and a dana 60 front will too.. try and find something with 3.73- 4.10 gearing for those 35" tires.
not sure what you mean when you say "compression coming back through the intake" the intake is wide open and can sound very throaty or growly.
off the top off my head I'd say bad valve seals, posibly head gasket.
cracked head or pre cup..
you could pull the bad head and inspect it..
is the trans controler 12v or 24v on that set up? I have the same drivetrain but it's from a civy h-1 and its all electronic fuel system with integrated ecu.
I want to convert it to a mechanical IP but I think I need the stand alone trans controler?
there is a support bracket that bolts to the block for the other end of the starter. I had to redrill a new hole in it to line up with the 12v starter. make sure you have this.
perhaps you can get a tap set and try to rethread the existing hole. or drill out the threads and tap one size...
thats a little green wire that ends at the injection pump and daisy chains back to the temp switch "that switch is in one of the heads right next to where a glow plug screws in"
there is a cluster of wires by the fuel fiter, check all those connections and make sure you don't have any fuel...
Re: RE: CUCV wiring woes
converting to 12v is simply removing one alt, rewiring the batts in parallel, and swaping in a 12v starter. thats so complicated! :roll:
I would unbolt the filler neck at the top "behind the door" rather than mess around with the rubber part. They can be a real pain and I dont think you can a new one because the opening is bigger on the cucv. You'll notice a greater transition from the tank side to the filler neck bolted to the...
did you account for the fluid in converter when changing it out? check the trans fluid level on flat ground, engine running, and shifted in neutral..
check the vac pull at the vac pump should be 20" replace those vac hoses and the canister on the side of the trans mission
I did have a problem...
I have a complete drivetrain from a 97 HMMWV actualy civy H-1, I was wondering about the clearances between the exhaust turbo downpipe and the firewall.
I know that it's been done on a m1028 and my project should be similar "75 gmc jimmy"
heres the pics of the m1028...
you should have a single wire comming from + side of the front batt to the smaller diamond shaped power block on the firewall.
sounds like you got the wiring mixed up? take a volt meter and read + terminal at the front battery it should be 12v and the + terminal at the rear battery should be...
that sounds kind of like something I did, only with black abs and an aftermarket filter
I changed to a single plane intake manifold for a lower profile and used some threaded rod
there's a rocker type pluger on the side of the injection pump, depress that and it should change the idle and make it run a little rough. check the rubber fuel return line coming from the top of the injection pump, I put a clear piece of tubing in its place to check for air bubbles.
it may...