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It would most definitely be easier to remove the wheel to get to everything. I unfortunately don't have any pictures of the drivers side of the truck, but I do have some decent pictures of the passenger side taken apart (everything is basically the same minus the steering linkage)...
Agreed. While you're in there you might as well either rebuild or replace the wheel cylinder.
Do you have all the tools needed to do the job? Mostly basic standard size tools, but the 3" 8 point socket makes life so much easier.
Looks good. How did you mount it to the frame?
I need to look into getting a new civilian hitch for our truck, its just not very high on the priority list right now. The one installed by the previous owner doesn't really look very trust worthy (the welds are terrible), so I'm not sure I'd...
This is probably the best layman's way to explain the difference between the two systems.
Once you install calipers and pads onto a rotor, pump the brakes up, and top off the master cylinder, the amount of fluid used for disc brake application is negligible. Its not so much about moving fluid...
What all does he need help with? I don't have a ton of free time these days, nor am I super close to him, but I might be able to help out depending on what he needs.
I know this thread has been dead for a while, but is there any news on this? I really don't want to have to keep paying out the *** for weighted tags if I don't have to.
I had mentioned this in a different thread, can't remember which one, but I also got the remote reservoir mounted on the firewall with a ball valve and a port for hooking up a power bleeder. The idea behind it is I can close off the reservoir via the ball valve so when I go to pressure bleed the...
Doubtful, most of the noise you get out of fans is the air its moving. So assuming it moves the same amount of air, I would guess it would be the same noise level. I guess if you get down to the science behind it, the blade angle and other various factors play into it as well. That's not really...
You might want to start there. The last 3-4 cars I've worked on that had a pull when braking had loose suspension parts (one had a loose tie rod, the most recent was an extremely loose lower ball joint) beyond that its either locked up calipers, slide pins (which don't apply to you), or bad...
One of those would be useful to have for not just engine swaps. What is the load rating of it? Do you think it could pull a bed or no? I might have to look into getting one of those down the road.
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