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I would consider it, depending how well they came out.

The next time I go out to mine I will poke my head under the dash and get some pictures of mine.

Are you talking about the shell all the lights and guages are mounted in?

I researched the diagrams again. The light for the voltmeter should NOT share a ground with the voltmeter, that wire goes through a relay to get to ground. The voltmeter light and the heater control light are on a circuit together. The ground will terminate at the firewall with all the other...

Good looking truck! I am more interested in the M1031 you mentioned. Any pictures or history/status of it?

For the bulkhead connector I use an electrical connector spray cleaner available at any parts store. Tall red can, cannot remember the name. in pic 2, if I am looking at it correctly, the wires in your hand are for the light for the volt meter. It is sharing a ground with the voltmeter...

Just a thought, you can also check the continuity without the bulb. Just check from each side of the bulb socket to the corresponding wire at the bulkhead connector with the bulkhead connector disconnected. Front bulb removed also. How is the snow?

Just looking at the wiring again. If you take the bulb out of the left front turn/marker you can check for continuity on the bulkhead connector on the LT BLU -14A and the BRN-9A to test the sidemarker circuit. Disconnect the bulkhead connector first.

All of the rear lights share BRN-9A for power. There may be one weak point in all of this, the fuse panel itself with the bulkhead connector. Have you done anything to take it all apart and clean all the contacts and tighten up the fuse connectors? I have completely gone through the whole thing...

I have been reviewing the wiring diagrams. The voltmeter light is strange, but as it is supposed to be connected to the light for the heater control also, please see if it is blinking as well. Power for that circuit comes from the light switch to the bottom left fuse then provides power for all...

The blower motor grounds through the box it is mounted to. Most times the members here will tell you to run a second ground from the blower motor to another ground point (negative bus bar). That is what I did. the horn is self grounding by the mounting bolt, just remove the horn and clean the...

Only six wires on the headlight switch. I only have one wire to the spider also.

Ok. I am now a believer! I had an idle moment figuring out generator wiring and tried the PEX fix. It is amazing how easy it is to close the door now! :D

I will give it a try.

On post#24 second paragraph, with left turn engaged all of the left side turn signals(front and rear) and the marker does not work, but, the right rear turn signal works? As well as the backlight for the 24 volt meter? There are wires crossed somewhere… in the turn signal switch the front and...

Will adjusting the striker change the position of the door? Right now when I close the door, granted it is a hard close, the door is aligned all the way around.

Where are you still finding M1008s?!

I have never seen a cucv that the doors closed easy. My doors are lined up very well, I put new doors seals in as I rebuilt everything. Still have to close them hard. I will look at the youtube university to see what I can do.

Re-reading your posts, I think you are hoing to have to do some continuity checks. It sounds like you do have some wires crossed somewhere. It helps me to draw a checklist of where each bulb socket pin terminates at the connector and check it off as I go, then test it against all other pins to...

There is another ground that you might take a look at. Under the dash above the parking brake is the only ground in the cab. It looks like a six-legged spider with one one wire clamped under it. Clean those components really well also. After that you only 4 more grounds left on the truck. 1...