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M1008 with 51k miles Truck was running great, had to make a trip to the drop off some stuff for donation which was 10 miles away so the truck is fully up to temp. Was in a parking lot going slow, light throttle then all of sudden it dies. Try to crank it but the engine just spins and never...

One thing I like about the screw in D-ring is they fit snug on the mounts and don't make any noise and little more difficult to steal if you make it tight enough with a wrench. My original military D-ring had a thick cotter pin through it and it was a bitch to remove with needle nose pliers...

Thanks! One of the previous owners must have installed 3 aftermarket D-rings. I was thinking they were original but its the one cotter pin version that must be original which I'll probably sell.

Better picture. Which D-ring shackle is original military? Right or left? Or neither?

Which D-ring is correct? I needed a new D-ring since I had one that didn't match. 3 of mine look like this: Tuff Stuff 6.5 Ton Black D Ring Bow Shackle 7/8" W/ 1" Pin 14,500lb Capacity TS-BS65B-BK Cost - $16 plus shipping BUT now when I look at other pictures, I see other CUCV's with...

Thats pretty cool. I had no idea AF used GM trucks those years

Should be the same tie rod for the Civi 84 K5 Blazer correct? I'm going to upgrade my tie rod with something stronger. ORD and a few others sells a nice thick DOM tie rod kit with the two short ends. Also requires a clamp for the stabilizer.

It will ride rougher. The best riding spring is going to be your leaf springs with many thin leafs. Its a night and day difference between a set of custom ORD springs and off the shelf or stock springs. The only issue with the custom springs is cost but If you really want a good riding spring...

Looks good! Love mine but I'm curious if I will have any buzzing noise in my stereo after its installed. Some LED's have issues with radio noise, some don't.

Mine also vibrates at idle in gear. Doesn't matter where the tank is. Looking to do injectors next.

Thanks for explaining that. So this puller has the same M16x1.5 thread the crank has. I never took my fan or shroud off. I did everything from the bottom pretty easily. The hardest part was getting the seal on since there's not much room for a hammer.

Mine was closed during the weekend. My fault for not preparing earlier in the week but I assumed the install kit would work. Two Ace HW stores had the nut, don't stock the bolts.

I tried to weld the 2 bolts together to make the installer but my crappy 110v wasn't penetrating. And nobody locally close to me sells a long m16x1.5 bolt.

THat performance part number just shows the puller and not the bearing or the large nut the installer has. Are you saying the main large bolt for the puller fits our cranks? If so then it would probably work if you found a m16x1.5 nut and large washer but the threads can't go as deep with that...

I'm also curious if there's better injectors out there today for the 6.2 and if the 25hp has actually been dyno proven.

Thanks for the tool part number. My puller worked fine and most pullers will with the right long metric bolts which you can buy if needed. Problem I had was the installer did not have the correct M16x1.5 thread for the crank. O'reilly, Advance, Pepboys, Autozone, Napa all had the same brand...

Thats a pretty nice setup. I like the alum. shaft too!

Well that makes me feel better when I looked down and I was accidentally doing 65mph. I keep reading do not go past 55mph with these engines and 4.56 gears but sounds like its ok. I installed some 37" tires which helps by 8mph but still sucks being in the slow lane the entire time.

Thanks to stonewalljac, I scored this timing light on ebay for $53. Need to start looking at new injectors. I may go with the marine but not sure yet.

How does the gear vendors overdrive work with the tcase? Is it in front or behind it?