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I actually forgot all about this thread. DIdn't even get a notification you had posted.
Personally if I wanted to stay in the 36" range I'd go get some 36x12.5R16 Interco Super Swamper TSL Radials. They're famous for actually only being about 10-11" wide. Put those on the...
Croatan Kid's putting a Cummins 6BT in his 1008. It's a great engine but it's a lot of work and really, overpowers the truck. Many folks have done the swap and there is aftermarket support for it.
The power and capability the engine and drivetrain would give you would be more than the frame...
1 ton. Not 3/4 ton.
He's got some excellent advice there. Either find a proper tow bar for it or have one made, don't try to use one of the little ones meant for cars and small SUV's that weigh less than a M1009 let alone a M1008. Also, go find a friend with a 3/4 or 1 ton truck and use...
The problem with their stuff is...big surprise...they're the house store for Tuff Country. It's a bit overpriced and the kit is lacking. Notice how it has a "brake line extension" kit and doesn't even mention the steering at all.
Here's the ORD kit I mentioned before...
GM's website had a Suburban version back in the 90's when they were marketing it. I was in lust over it back then. Probably never made it for the same reasons they never made the Suburban a CUCV back in the 80's.
4 speed can be done with all off the shelf GM parts (if you got a donor vehicle in good shape it'd all be there).
5 speed is much more work as these trucks never came with a NV4500 so you're instantly into the aftermarket from step one. People do it and like it but it is no where near as easy...
What he said.
Also, why do you need dual shocks on both ends? Just going to end up with a truck that rides like a brick wagon.
Consider www.OffRoadDesign.com . They're the big name in the aftermarket for these trucks and they sell Tuff Country springs. In the rear I'd do their 2.5" shackle...
Potentially it is a hurt...only because so many folks today can't drive a stick.
That said the SM465 is known for being beefy and while the TH400 is too it's a power sucking hog. Too me, and many like me, the stick would be a plus. I'd like to do the swap myself one day.
Guess it depends who...
Neat.
The CV joint protectors just look like...burlap...or maybe something else that's dirty.:?:
I know there was a Tahoe/Suburban CUCV-II prototype...seen pictures but hey, I'd only ever seen one of these trucks before. Might be some rolling around somewhere. Anyone have any hard numbers on...
Jersey hit the nail on the head. It all depends upon their definition of "noisy and smokey." VW Golf diesel? Then you're screwed. Modern diesel 1 ton pickup? You're still on soft ground there as these things aren't as quiet as their modern descendents.
Just thought of something. There is no ACC on CUCV ignitions. Just run and start (and off obviously). In the run position the lights come on and the radio will turn on but you're also cycling the gp's.
This is why I rewired my radio last summer so that it only gets constant 12v and I have...
Oh, doh, I read that wrong, ignition eh? There's a few switched 12v (IGN) in the CUCV fuse box. Again, the diagram in the FAQ, if it's still there, shows them.
Last I knew NAPA could still get the correct GM style fuse taps for doing this sort of thing. However you have to find a counter...
There's a diamond shaped terminal with two posts to the passenger side of the brake master cylinder. It's 12v constant. I'm powering my radio off of that. Good place to get lights and all that off of.
I have a set of Group 31's from AdvancedAuto. Done fine by me so far and they even replaced one after a boo boo on my part last summer. 6TL's are just damn big and heavy. Not worth the cost or hassle to run if you can get Group 31's. They're a common large tractor/equipment battery so a lot...