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Disclaimer.... Electrical is Voodoo to me:carnac:, but even a broken clock is right twice a day. Maybe you have a bad dog head relay? Aren't these things from lawnmowers? And aren't lawnmowers 6 volt? Maybe it's the wrong voltage relay?
Performance thus far..... M1028, Banks turbo, Gear vendors over drive, stock 31" tires & gears......I've driven about 1000 miles so far, half around town & on country roads 55-65 MPH. And the other half on the highway 70-80 MPH. First and foremost the truck runs much smoother & quieter at speed...
Installation notes........I didn't have to remove the vacuum pump? However the passenger side is a pain to get to. there's a large wiring harness over top of the block off plate, that doesn't like to move. I ended up throwing down a foam fender cover & laying on top of the motor for this part...
If the manufacturers thought their vehicles were perfect they wouldn't bother designing new ones. These trucks were designed with the technology of (30 yrs ago), to be as vanilla as possible, so they could sell as many as possible. The manufacturers of after market parts of (today) also have the...
I respectfully disagree. Your assuming a man made, mass produced, for profit product is perfect, and has no room for improvement? A small (2-1/2") lift, and 1 size up tire is hardly worth all this fuss LOL! :shrugs: To the untrained eye no one would even know it's been lifted. And it WILL ride...
HA! I was just joking with you LOL! I knew you would hate the idea of a lift. And have to agree when most people are shopping for a classic vehicle (myself included), would prefer an unmolested one. But at the same token these trucks aren't 59' Cadillacs. Their never going to be worth a fortune...
HA! When I was writing about the lift, I almost said "except for CUCVRUS" LOL! I disagree, (1st) it's a M1009 so most people won't be hauling large or heavy items in the tiny bed. 2nd I did the math when I bought my lift kit. At the end of the day it's cheaper to just do a 2-1/2" lift kit, then...
(1st), I wouldn't just call the brakes good! Chances are the calipers are rusted in place and can no longer float. Also if the rubber flex lines are the originals then consider them done. Then wheel cylinders, calipers, and master are surely done as well. (2nd) the original front leafs are...
Yeah I just bought a rebuild kit of Ebay and did it at my kitchen table. I get (27.1) from the plug on GEN2, but when I pull the pug and test the male tangs on the alternator themselves I get nothing?
The original seal is a piece of rope. Mine leaked a little at first, then let go big time. When I pulled it apart the pieces of rope that were left would disintegrate between your figures. You mite want to mark it on your calendar that you'll have to replace it in another 30 years[thumbzup].
Okay so Lowes & O'reilly's have them (U nuts) just don't know if they carry them on their shelf?..... https://www.lowes.com/pl/U-nuts-Nuts-Fasteners-Hardware/4294546120 https://www.oreillyauto.com/shop/hardware---fasteners-16585/nuts-16885/nuts----u-nuts-19360
Update,.. The problem persistsaua. Rebuilt the passenger side alternator & Just replaced both Optima yellow top batteries, No joy, the light is still staying on dimly lit. I checked the voltage of GEN2 and I get (27.1), and on GEN1 I get (12.1). I read on another thread that there's a "diode"...
GM engineers gave us an even easier way to tell where they go. The hose from the radiator is 3/4". And the hose from the motor is 5/8". The heater core inlets are corresponding sizes.
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