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When ever I go on long trips I always take my "bugout bag", or "72hr bag". Food, water, toilet paper, hand sanitizer, solar phone charger, cash, pistol + extra mags. Also it wouldn't be a bad idea to bring some jerry cans of fuel. Sometimes it's hard to find a gas stations that sell diesel in an...

So I skimmed through the many threads on this subject, but I have a question? While shopping online I noticed Autozone lists one ("with a rectangular bracket"). The one on my M1028 has such a bracket, so is this the one I need to get? Or can I simply swap my bracket over to any new one? Here's a...

The problem isn't the door itself, like you said, you can find them all day for next to nothing. It's the body flange for the door that nobody's making...:shrugs:

Thank you VERY MUCH. I found it at O'Reilly auto for $2.70 per FT. Hydraulic hose wildly varies in price $$$. Napa wanted almost $8.00 per FT for the stuff they keep in stock. Now I just have to find those oetiker clamps you mentioned in another thread. Thanks again for your help...[thumbzup]

My oil cooler lines have started leaking, and I want to go your route of cutting & replacing the rubber hydraulic hose. The only place local around me that sells it is Napa. Do you buy any chance have a part number for the hydraulic hose you use?

Yeah I still need that fuel door & flange we talked about cucvrus.

Here's a cool RPM calculator ......https://www.ringpinion.com/calculators/Calc_RPM.aspx

Well it turned out beautiful. It just sucks you had to spend all that money, and waste all that time just to get a fuel door. Thanks for the heads up.

How bad is your original? It might be easier to just cut & fit the fuel door into the original.

Hotrod & audio guys have bin using this stuff.....https://www.lowes.com/pd/Peel-Seal-Instant-Waterproof-Repairs-6-in-x-25-ft-Aluminum-Roll-Flashing/1018733 It's far cheaper then Dyamat or Fatmat.

I thought I'd share this elusive issue I experienced in case it can help someone else....... I'd bin driving around with blown head gaskets for about 6 months do to time & $$$ restraints. After finally installing a new set of aftermarket heads, Felpro gaskets, and ARP studs. The coolant system...

Well the fuel line thing is normal do to the do to the injector angle differance between the 6.2 & 6.5 castings. So that I get, the holes not lining up was suprising though. They were all closer to the center of the engine. Which is why I figured the thinner gaskets ?

Thought I'd do an update on this. I got the new heads, studs, and glow plugs installed. And the truck runs BEAUTIFUL!! starts without touching the throttle, runs quieter, and smoother then it ever did before! Temp seems to run a little warmer then it used to, around 200° to 210° now. But from...

I was unaware there was a square socket hole? But I've bin just using a crow bar hooked into the front side of the bracket , & pushing against the frame. Pretty much effortless to hold and tighten.

Is this normal?

M1028, 6.2, with a banks turbo. I just bought a brand new set of heads off Ebay. It's my understanding that they are 6.5 heads? With the new Canadian castings that aren't supposed to crack? Anyway, what head gaskets should I use with these? 6.2 or 6.5? is there a difference?

Whats the part number on yours?

Also if anyone has a line on one for a good price I'd be grateful. I found one on Ebay for $720.00. Seems a little steep?

Thanks for the Very helpful response! My (current & original) injection pump has an intermittent leak from the throttle shaft. This is my work truck, and my only transportation. So in the name of down time, I need to just buy a replacement pump rather then have mine rebuilt so I can be back on...

So I've read several old threads about injection pumps and now I'm lost:shock:. Someone posted a list of part numbers that listed different numbers for different years of CUCV? Mine is an 1986 M1028, and I've add a Banks turbo. I haven't checked the numbers on mine, but as per the list it should...