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Interesting. Kinda like the FMTVs that are showing up in US inventories, but bigger maybe?

That's a nice one! Mine has some dents and a bit of rust bubble on the hood. I'd worry more if it ever got wet for any appreciable length of time here. Keep it, repaint it, save the 35's for some Ford POS. Alternatively, sell it to me... just don't ask why all the $20 bills have blood on em...

Nice find! I kinda wanted that Banks turbo (and a spare engine), but not enough to pay that much and have a Suburban carcass to deal with.

Done that! :razz: Cooked some starters doing it too.... Smoke colors are pretty much the same; you'll see some when starting cold, that's normal for pretty much any diesel. Best way to really check is to get a compression test done. Civvy model will most likely be on a 12 volt system. Check...

I've been able to find them at NAPA, but they aren't in the computer. Find someone who knows how to crack open the parts books.

I'd say you need to fix that battery tray problem before it shorts out and causes another fire/battery explosion! It's certainly not helping matters. I needed to replace the cable ends when I got new batteries, when I inspected the cable it was badly corroded from acid exposure. I decided not...

Most of the imports I've seen seem to have started down the assembly line with a heater core, and built the vehicle around that.

I'd plan on buying the jack and some jack stands before doing the wheel bearings, you'll need them. And if you're a tight fit underneath a truck like I am, they make the oil and trans fluid changes easier. I use a Harbor Freight jack, think it's a 3 ton, and their 6 ton jack stands. Wheel...

1. That's a fresh air vent. You have one on the passenger side as well. State-of-the-art climate control! :wink: 2. Count the number of bolt heads/look at the pattern on the differentials. There's a good recognition guide in the LMC Truck catalog, which you should get if you don't have one...

I think LMC has that window filler as well, possibly you'll have to buy the long piece for the back window and cut to length. My driver's window had been replaced at some point, when it broke again I noticed that there was no filler. Instead it had been held in with clear silicone caulk. I...

Well, don't do what I did. I left my lights on, killed one battery, and in trying to jump it from a 12V system, managed somehow to get 24V back long enough to kill the other guys alternator. Though now that I think about, we probably had it hooked up all wrong to start with. Don't mix alcohol...

This thread reminded me of a deuce I'd seen a bit south of where I live, down the old state highway. I hopped on Google Maps and tried to find it, but didn't spot it until I went all the way down the highway (virtually) in Street View. Apparently 686A Tan is effective camouflage around here!

I'd call a 12V starter in a 24V system an 'emergency capability' at best. I ran that way after I bought a new starter from CarQuest. Despite assurances that it would work, it was never ideal. It spun much faster than it should have, which was great some of the time, but more than half the...

Propane and water/methanol injection systems work by providing air charge cooling. Cooler air is more dense, so you get more into the cylinder, so you can combust more fuel. Propane is a fuel, not an oxidizer like nitrous, and too much of it will start to displace air. Of the two, I would...

Your options are pretty much eBay, GovLiq, and local (F/S signs, Craigslist). I've seen CUCVs on all those. You might also try the classified section on this site, though be aware some members are going to be slightly mad if you're going to chop up a perfectly good MV for parts. eBay can be...

*drool* Nice work!

Just to add my 0.02$: Folks, this is serious business. I once went to a live auction for some computer equipment. While previewing some lots, I met a friend I hadn't seen in a few years, we talked for a while, and the conversation drifted to the condition of some of the gear that would be for...

Hopefully you've checked the obvious. :idea: If you have a MityVac pump, you can use that plus the jar to suction fuel through the filter at the bleed point. Doing this saves your starter. I take the fuel filler cap off to make sure I'm not trying to suction from all the way inside the return...

Having bought my M1009 in a private sale, and a 30' trailer from GL, and am constantly drooling over the M35's coming out of Santa Fe, I'd agree with the above and say you should get your *first* from a private seller. You do still run the chance of getting a lemon, but that's any used vehicle...

I too am planning on swapping the 1008 axles into a 1009, along with the necessary lift and steering modifications for larger tires. I'll throw in a 6.5 turbo engine if I can find one. It's a long-term project, waiting on funds and shop space.