Search results

If you don't find one soon let me know. I'll give you mine when I put the turbo on. It may be awhile though.

Cracks between the valves or hairline cracks in the precups is normal on these and does not necessarily mean the head is bad. Make sure you use ARP studs. Don't screw around with TTY bolts. Trust me I have done many 6.xxx HG jobs...They are worth the money. The head pictured I put back on and it...

Drainback. A few possibilties. The return Check vale is possible. Also check around the throttle shaft on the IP for wetness. Very common. Also the mech lP. I'd toss the mech Lp anyway but that's me..You ncould put a check valve inline to the IP. The FFM housing suck too as was said . Also make...

Put a Fuel pressure gauge on the fuel line going to the IP. Make sure you have good fuel pressure under load. The factory Mech LP's leave alot to be desired IMHO. Sounds more like a weak LP. When a DB2 takes a dump it "usually" runs rough and smokes alot.

AFAIK the Walbro FRB5 is discontinued and replaced by a newer model ...I think anyway. For a CUCV A factory lift pump from a 1993 Chevy K3500 6.5TD is the best LP to use as it is designed to work with a DB2. If you put a LP on with to much pressure it could screw with the cold advance. I...

You could have it sandblasted. Whatever you do I would not grind it without the proper PPE. The CARC may cause Death...:D

Antifreeze tastes sweet. it's good for poisoning mice... If it is HG's use ARP studs. Summitracing sells them. I agree though looks like fuel to me. Is your coolant level low ?

Well now I know why the color is off. I goofed. I ordered Olive Drab not 383 Green. Oh well. It looks fine and I am not repainting it now. The bad news is I am running short on Paint and Mil Spray is no longer offering it for sale in anything but bug bombs cause they had too many complaints...

That was exactly what I said when I would not join facebook...:D

Here's the pics.

I wen through this last year. The alum ones are junk. I used to have awesome heat until I put that POS in. I took my old one to a rad shop and had it recored and put ti back in. That is the only way. They are no longer available in copper. Recore your old one. BTW my heat works awesome again.

And my old Tonka truck...

day 2 pics

So my M1008 took a pretty serious beating last winter. Crap on the roads around here wreck everything. Oddly enough the body seems to have fended off the stuff. I really think the CARC Paint under the white paint saved the truck from salt. The body is very clean for a 25 yr old truck. The frame...

No problemo...:-P

I painted today as well... http://www.steelsoldiers.com/paint-bodywork/76133-anybody-use-milspray-restoration-paint.html#post957189

Yep. No overspray either. Not all sticky like Enamel but the color was off from the original. More yellowy IMHO. Thing I noticed is it "seems" to lay out well like lacquer but I laid it on too heavy at first and got some "flow indicators".

If you read my thread I covered all of this. What OD said....x2

ORU sells the crossover kit. You will need a 2wd steering box. I don't personally think it's necessary for 6 inch lifts and under.

The 93 6.5TD was equipped with a DB2 so you know this LP was meant to work with it.