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Gatville; It sounds to me that your rear proportioning valve was out of adjustment. If you look on the rotating valve body you will see a little dot. With no load in the truck, this dot is supposed to be straight up. easy to do, simply remove the nut and gently pull the arm off, then rotate...

Thought I would bump this up. Anybody know anything about a universal joint to replace the steering rag joint? Thanks.

I have searched and cannot find the answer. I am now installing crossover steering and a 2WD steering box in my M1028. I was wondering if anybody has replaced the steering rag joint with a greasable univeral joint. It seems I saw a photo on here a while back, but my searches came up empty...

Folks, thanks for all the comments. This is not the first time I have done this. I built the wheels in 1985 and ran 11.00/20NDT for 10 years on a civi K30 diesel with no problems whatsoever. Wore that truck out, sold it, saved the wheels. Bought my M1028 with 12,338 miles last year and...

Here's a couple more pics before I install the bed -

tnttnt187; Had to trim fenders big time. Used ORD's 4" HD springs with 1" Zero Rates. Repositioned front axle 1" forward. Tires clear fine lock-to-lock. Ordering cross-over steering now.

Almost finished. Will post plenty of pics when I get the bed back on.

I have searched but cannot find the answer. Are all the instrument lights 12 volt? It seems that I saw a thread a while back that indicated the Gen 1 dash light was 24 volt, and that the system would not charge unless the light was operable. My Gen 1 light will not come on when the key...

Got the tires & wheels installed. Almost finished.

bushhawg - pm me if you need any assistance in fabricating the new actuator rod.

Here's my new brake actuator rod installed. I fabricated it from a piece of 1" x 3/16" flat steel stock obtained from the hardware store. I connected it with short 3/8" bolts and nylon lock nuts, left a little loose to allow for movement. I also used a nylon friction washer between the moving...

While I had the bed off I installed a civi fuel filler neck, locking gas cap, new hoses and clamps. Had to fabricate a radius adapter of 1/8" aluminum to marry the smaller-diameter civi neck to the larger-diameter military housing.

Spring packs rebuilt and installed. Shackle flip kit installed with HD grease-able poly bushings.

Doghead, I see that little dot. In the stock position with the factory arm attached, it was almost straight up, but rotated slightly clockwise. If the weight of the bed was added, I believe the dot would be straight up. Do you think that is the designed position?

bushhawg, I already done the rear disc brake conversion. See my thread at http://www.steelsoldiers.com/cucv/52121-rear-disc-brakes.html . IMHO it will be easier to fabricate a new rod than to remove the valve. The valve is there for a reason. When you remove it, you also remove the ability...

bushhawg, I am finishing the 5" lift of my M1028 now, and I plan to fabricate a longer actuator rod for the rear brake proportioning valve. I will probably build the thing this weekend and will post photos then. The photos here show the rod and valve in their stock, unaltered position. I...

Why don't you simply increase your dire diameter? 2cents

Got the springs back from the sandblaster, sprayed 'em with zinc phosphate solution, and shot a coat of flat black. Did the same for the alignment brackets and bolts. Cleaned up the poly spacers between the springs and then reassembled. Better than new. Will now shoot a coat of Chassis Black...

Well folks, when I got my rear spring packs off, I realized that they were just too dang rusty. So, I decided to completely disassemble, sandblast, phosphate, and paint each leaf, then reassemble. Here's some photos up to the disassembly phase. They are now at the sandblasters.

Hey Nude - I am installing the ORD shackle lift kit not on my M1028. You can read about it in my rebuild thread - http://www.steelsoldiers.com/cucv/54469-kinda-got-carried-away.html