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Tier 4 interim compliance is not necessarily that complicated. But that only gets you to 2012, I believe. It is the tier 4 full compliance after that where you see more annoying add ons like DEF or catalytic exhaust with burn cycle.
This speaking from my experience with small (30-60 HP)...
Most people (although not all) think that running these at lower than 1,800 RPM is hard on the VR. Therefore, leave the RPM set at 1,800 with no idle for warm up or warm down.
First picture is 002 with ASK and added CUCV muffler, is as quiet as the 802.
But the 802s are nice machines also. I got a freshly"reset" runner from GL for around $1k, and it is my primary standby right now.
Second picture is simple turn down pipe on 802 to protect motor from rain and snow.
Check out this member's thread. Some idea what one might be getting into.
A lot were sold in MD a few years ago, and in all the auction pictures they were covered in snow. I put a simple 11/4 inch NPT turn down pipe on mine, others have used a flapper stack, but they tend to make noise...
I'll second what Guy said, and also sounds like neutral problem to me.
I was doing a R-3 adjustment on an 003 once, using house as load, all wired up proper, interlock locked, I accidentally tripped over the neutral while reading multi-meter, it ripped out of lug. Ha, the shop lights blinked...
When I freed my switch, I loosened but did not remove the switch, to gain access to the four nuts at front plate of switch. I loosened the nuts slightly but did not remove. I was then able to rotate the switch with vise grips. I had already broken off the knob trying to rotate switch. I also...
Wheel dolly, remove drive shaft, and limp it home in front wheel drive? Guess you'd have to plug or keep yoke in transfer case output & maybe terrain is to rough.
If I'm seeing the picture right, that hole in the differential cover might mean there is more wrong in there, perhaps indicating...
This may be part of the misunderstanding around this topic, maybe the Earth is flat out in the middle of the land mass, but gets round by the ocean. **:
:grin: still don't know how to use these flippin modicoms, but suspect that may be a good thing. Wife...
The old duvacs can be a problem. I converted a 1010 I have to a regular CUCV by switching the wire harness after the duvac 'melted'. Seems to be a common problem, mostly age related.
There is a good thread about an alternative which keeps the 24V you need for the cabin AC . Something like...
Relating to this post and another on similar topic, it is possible to loosen up the rivets in a frame. Have done so myself on a few light duty trucks when taking them loaded over poorly maintained dirt road with large alternating holes, (too large to be called pot holes).
A restored '66 k-20...
A good running CUCV with no rust could be worth $5K, if all sorted out and needs no work.
I know,.... I used to buy them from GL at a third of that, but those days are mostly over.
The OP should look it over and drive it, make the best deal they can. Never a bad idea to have another...
Of course rust free from mid west and east coast start to command a price premium also. I used to live in Michigan, cars turned to swiss cheese up there even faster than they do here by the ocean.
Thanks,
I'd call it a 2-3 yard bed. The wood box is because I sometimes use it with a chipper and a leaf vac loader. The sides are removable(note slots for pallet forks at top of metal part.) This will be handy when loading with the little mini track loader. I welded on stake pockets on...
Not a hot rod, but modified.
Here is one I recently finished. Has been a back burner project for several years after I bought a 1010 cab & chassis off GSA. Listing said,"may have transmission problems" haha, it was missing transmission and transfer case. Had to wait to retire a rusted out...
I just had a nose cone casting crack right off a daily driver 1008 with original 27MT (non gear reduction) last week. There was no warning and the truck had started normally earlier in the day. The starting gear stayed engaged and grinding once key was turned until batteries were un hooked...
The only thing that comes to mind is to check that the cable is fully engaged with back of speedometer and spinning freely. You can spray some lube into the cable to be sure it is not dry. Otherwise, the new head may be bad also.
You might be able to take it apart and fix or lube the head...
Is this an MEP-802a, or some other Onan application? I have wondered if the was a civilian equivalent to the 802.
The 802s have a LPW2 motor. A lot have been surplussed lately, someone must be parting one out. According to the Parts TM (available on this site) the part number for the 802...