Search results

They all go bad eventually. It's a bad design to begin with. Something sticking out the side is bound to get knocked off eventually.

Front terminal needs 24v applied to start the alternator making power. Otherwise it will just spin with no power generated.

2 terminals on regulator. 24v excite/regulation and ac which is an ac output and should not be used on a first gen truck. Unless you are driving a tach with it. But that's a separate discussion.

I can look tomorrow see if I have one kickin around. Most alt shops don't understand the mil alternators and don't put 24v to the regulator excite terminal when testing it.

The whole thing pulls out. I usually use a new well nut and a bolt/washer. Putting the drain back in is a pain.

Climb into the bed and look where the fluid is coming out. Could be cab latch, could be hyd pump, could be a hose.

All of the corrosion on the valve is caused by the rubber piece deteriorating and chemicals leeching out of it. Supposedly the newer piece is made of different rubber. Eats up the valve though. The stainless orifice in the center is where the air seal happens. If that's pitted sometimes you can...

I have rebuilt ones.

But to run shared batts like in the lmtv they would have to stay in synch.

Sounds like the gage is going bad and was sticking. You tapping on it got it to move. May it may not read correct now. I would replace the gage.

With the Niehoff dual voltage it divides the 28 volt output to get the 14. With the dual alt, which seems like 2 alternators mated together, how do you keep the regulation in sync with each other so the low is putting out half of the high? If the 28 volt was in the 27 range but the 14 volt was...

Once you start adding in acoustic case and an onboard tank the prices really rise. If you have somewhere to mount a gen and don't need the case and tank then they are a decent deal.

So it's 2 alternators stacked? Do you have a pic of one installed?

I have seen replacement gaskets available or you can buy a new civ cap with gasket. It's a common size.

It's almost always the stalk control. One blinker not working is common.

The newer models that are replacing the TQ gens are more "less trained user" friendly. I believe more plug in and less electrician needed to wire. A well cared for 4000 hour units should be just fine. 2800 was a good price.

Remove banjo bolt. Put plastic bag with rubber band around banjo assy and rubber band down tight over hose. See if bag expands.

Flip over batt box cover it shows diagram.

Take all your gladhand covers off and leave them off. Check for any blockages inside the gladhands themselves. Sometimes mud wasps will build nests and block them up.

There is a spring brake release air circuit off the red front gladhand. Meant to release brakes for towing. Usually what happens is the check valve behind the bumper is bad, and all the air will leak out the red gladhand. So to build air someone will find a way to block the airflow at or around...