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Uncovered this on my M1031. The plate shows door was originally in a m1008. High mortality rate on 1031 doors? Like they did not chock it when running PTO. I believe IFOR was the 'stabilization force' in Bosnia.

I think you are referring to the injector line for the #1 cylinder (driver's side front). The Tiny Tach sender will probably work if clamped to any injector line, but you might as well follow the directions.

If you are not trying to keep it all original, you might do well to convert from the original charging system, at least replace the "duvac" or whatever the 24v to 12v converter is called. There are some old threads on this. I had one of those blue boxes melt when I got it charging. (mine...

Maybe check flex plate for loose bolts or a crack. Both have been known to happen.

And it will probably already have a TH700.

Is there any substantial advantage of a manual transfer switch over a lock out plate like the 'Interlockkit' ? The lockout plates look like a good, simple solution.

Is this another one of those threads? If you want a crew cab with a little flat bed behind, just get an old 4x4 suburban and hack that up. Some came w 6.2s. The CUCV frame is stamped for a single cab & 8 ft bed. Any changes from that will take some skill and work. No need to involve a nice...

When things get back to basics, basic tools like this will be valuable.

Yes, the switch is on the PTO. You should get and study the wiring diagram on this. It is not that complicated, but there are several switches and a couple circuits you need to be aware of or you will go nuts. And you don't want to be back here asking for location and operating instructions...

Try moving the PTO knob in and out a few times. If that does not work, check PTO position sensor switch.

Would that be a phosphoric acid based wash or latex? Lots of products out there.

You can replace the IP shutoff solenoid without removing the IP. I swapped one once from a core. They do not fail that often.

That is called a Vermeer style throttle in wood chipper land. I recently bought a replacement for my chipper for about $100. Includes cable and pull knob. But lots of folks say you should just set RPM for 60 hertz and leave it. Maybe you don't need the cable.

This is interesting, I sometimes have fairly clean 10w hydraulic oil out of machine maintenance. If and when folks who have put WMO or other products have their 6.2 IPs fail, hope they will let us know on this thread. Have been running old 6.2s for a while and have had to replace a few IPs just...

You probably know this, if you have not checked timing on new IP, there are two ways to do it. Both outlined in MEP-002a 003a wiki.

I bought one on a trailer from GSA a few years ago for $600. It had been sitting but only had 50 hrs since rebuild. I lost interest when I learned how much gasoline they use. Also it is a 3600 rpm unit. One good thing about the MEP-018a is they are apparently pretty easy to convert to...

Rod OD is 5/16, tube ID is 3/8 inches.

I bought a control board with selector switch and lugs for an old 10kw MEP 018. Have not got around to wiring it in yet. This would keep the 3 phase for the compressor motor and other options. Would welcome input on this. There is a manual for the PTO. I believe it is on the forum...

The part that burned was a fuseable link. There are a few of them. Also, it is best to replace the link instead of using regular wire, so the next time there is an electrical 'event' you won't melt your wire harness. You may have fried the starter and or starter solenoid in original event.

If you have good charged batteries, it should start regardless of alternator condition. The wisp of smoke near the junction box was probably a fuseable link. I would check that and the links attached to bus terminals behind the back battery.