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Hard to find truck. A lot of overlanders buy other trucks and put their own boxes on the back.

Post a pic of the unit and data plate. I have some of the manuals. The connectors can be ordered it's not hard to make the cable.

I have seen the control valve pushbutton on the hyd manifold go bad. If you push and nothing happens then it could be that. If you push and the air hyd pump is pumping but the cab or spare isn't moving then that's usually the pump. You can get air pockets sometimes and have to work them out. I...

The sides are worth a few bucks each. I scrapped 2 beds and found someone to buy one for 400 bucks on their cc.

I have the winch switch somewhere

I would remove the AC connection on the regulator and tape it off. Run the 24V regulation wire to the fuel solenoid positive, remove the old one and tape off. See if that helps.

Maybe his drivers dont want to floor it due to noise and smoke since he has passengers in the bed. Just give it enough pedal to go. I have a habit of flooring the 250 if I am driving one.

I find some tires shake a bit more than others. Tread can affect this. Try rotating tires around the truck one at a time and see if it improves. May just be one a bit out of round and won't have that affect on one of the back axles.

It would be unrealistic to operate a lot like that without equipment to unload, move and load. If it was GL I might say it was possible but I'm sure they have a decent forklift onsite.

At around 55? Or slower. Check all your front end components for wear. Measure the front wheels distance front and back of tires to check alignment.

I have some slim dual fan assemblies coming in the next few days. Made for just that application.

Usually radio wire

They are like the one behind the bumper. One way air valves. You can look in the parts TM (-24P) and see a breakdown showing everything. Will

Clean the pressure protective valve on the right side of the air tank by the ctis pressure switch. Service or upgrade your air dryer.

If everything appears to be working and the contactor won't close you can try disconnecting the wiring to the generator and see if that changes anything. Usually you will get an error light if the gen senses something that prevents output though. Download the troubleshooting manual and start...

I used a 12v bench supply to test it. Should retract. It connects to the top left module in the control box. There is a marked power and ground connections on that module. Measure with meter see if the module has power in run position.

Should retract with the switch in run position. You can bench test the solenoid with a power supply. I have found bad crimps in the control box multiple times. Never had a bad solenoid. Make sure the emergency stop is pulled out.

Actuator is probably good. Make sure breaker on back of control box inside engine bay is on. Check and see if modules in control box have power in run position.

What happens when you cycle the stalk? Does it go from high beams to no headlights? Did you check with a multimeter and see if it's just bad bulbs?

Right side of the pump area is a spring lever. You should be able to move it by hand. One of the injection pumps could be stuck down binding up the fuel rail. If the rail does not come left then no fuel can be pumped to the injectors. Figure out why the rail won't move.