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May be air bound. If you accidentally reversed the feed and return lines then the system won't work. I think the manual pump needs fluid to work it won't self prime.

You should build air to 125psi so if you are only building to 100 that may be why the buzzer is staying on. The air governor is mounted on the compressor I would turn it up a tad. If the air dryer is clogged up you could see low pressure like that.

Little brass fitting to adapt the air line

The tube style is first gen, m939 abs air dryer is second gen and the purest style pictured is the 3rd. I tried one of the tube ones that was like new it still didnt do anywheres near as good a job as the purest one.

I have the dryers. The bracket is a haldex universal bracket and there is a small adapter needed at the unloader line. You have to notch the bracket. I used to get plenty of moisture out when I drained my air tanks. Now there's little to none.

I will have a 1078 engine coming in a few weeks at a reasonable price. I have never shipped one though, buyers usually pick them up. It would have to go on its side (angled on wood) on a pallet.

Do the cans move when you release the brake? Could be a frozen check valve or frozen moisture in a line. Do you still use the old tube with fins air dryer? They dont work very well.

Start by checking the alternator to frame ground strap, cab to frame ground strap you can see it from the passenger side looking into the front grille. Swap out the 24v power relay. I think its a 12v relay. Add a ground strap to the dash panel. Measure the voltage at the relay panel left side...

The TX trucks are nice and rust free.

There are H blocks that slide in to keep the seats up. They are usually permanently attached to the seating with bunjee cord.

The neutral safety and other crank lockout relays are in the vim module behind the passenger kick. There is an aux start relay on the frame rail near the starter also. Its always best to start at the starter itself and work your way back.

So the alt is working. I would check all the connections at the batteries and protective box behind the cab. Could be a bad gage or bad connection somewhere. What year is the truck?

If you are only measuring 12 and 24 its low. The alt outputs should be 14 and 27+. Measure with engine off and then with it running.

The starter has its own battery lead going to 24v at the batts. On the solenoid the terminal closest to the block is the positive. Use a clip lead and try to crank touching the solenoid positive to the main positive on the starter. Old worn starters sometimes need a little extra power to crank...

Low voltage use 4 good fully charged batteries

You probably have the older style polarity box. Under the spare tire.

None of the troubleshooting guides work well for intermittent electrical issues especially when you cant get the gremlins to show themselves when you are doing the troubleshooting.

Use a multimeter. Does it drop to say 24 volts or 14 volts? Less than 24 volts you will know it. The trans won't shift properly or sometimes at all. You may be loosing the excite/regulation connector to the alt regulator. Or it could be a bad connection somewhere.

I opened an older MSD v2 there wasn't anything upgrade able. It was very well made. Took quite a bit to get it apart. Not sure if it would have all gone back together without a lot of work and luck. What operating system does yours run? If it has USB port I may be able to load the MSD os and...